80
!"#$ &!'()*+,(-.-* "*-*+./ -* #*+'.01234 566 &5.072, 63.-80(34 -4 69+*,:* ;<3/*4 -* =*,(9' #+4>*:4 -* ,27*+?@3(* :8A:(/ (',7(+.-4 '. 3*'. 0.'92* 34':*074+B'*. C.1+(*/ 6D*)*-4 E 5.+2.+2 FGHG

1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

  • Upload
    others

  • View
    1

  • Download
    0

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

Page 1: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!"#$%&!'()*+,(-.-*%"*-*+./%-*%

#*+'.01234%

566%&5.072,%63.-80(34%-4%69+*,:*%

;<3/*4%-*%=*,(9'%

%

%

%

%

#+4>*:4%-*%,27*+?@3(*%:8A:(/%(',7(+.-4%'.%3*'.%

0.'92*%34':*074+B'*.%

%

C.1+(*/%6D*)*-4%

%

%

%

E%%

%

%

%

%

%

5.+2.+2%

FGHG%

Page 2: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

C.1+(*/%6D*)*-4%

%

%

%

%

%

#+4>*:4%-*%,27*+?@3(*%:8A:(/%(',7(+.-4%'.%3*'.%

0.'92*%34':*074+B'*.E%

%

%

#+4>*:4% -*% 9+.-2.IJ4% .7+*,*':.-4%

3404% +*K2(,(:4% 7.+3(./% L% 41:*'IJ4% -4%

:@:2/4% -*% M.3N.+*/% *0% =*,(9'O% 7*/.%

!'()*+,(-.-*% "*-*+./% -*% #*+'.01234O%

5.072,% -4% 69+*,:*E% P41% .% 4+(*':.IJ4%

-.% #+4?EQ% "/R)(.% S(00*+/*% -.% ;T1+*9.%

54,:.%E%%

%

%

%

%

%

%

5.+2.+2%

FGHG%

Page 3: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

Catalogação na fonte

Bibliotecário Elilson Rodrigues Góis CRB4 - 1687

S237p Santos, Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos. Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel

Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor, 2011. 73 p.: il. ; 30 cm.

Orientador: Flávia Zimmerle da Nóbrega Costa Monografia (Trabalho de Conclusão de Curso) – Universidade Federal de

Pernambuco, CAA. Design, 2011. Inclui bibliografia. 1. Design – Moda – Brasil - Nordeste (superfície) 2. Manguebeat. 3. Movimento

Mangue. I. Costa, Flávia Zimmerle da Nóbrega (orientador). II. Título.

740 CDD (22.ed.) UFPE (CAA 2011-27)

Page 4: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

Professora Nara Oliveira de Lima Rocha

Professora Andréa Barbosa Camargo

Professora Flávia Zimmerle da Nóbrega Costa

Page 5: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!"#$%&'

('&)*"+,-&'."#+"' +/0)012&' 3&,' ."#"4-&1-"/'$%0' #$5"/367,"' +89+,1'50/0' #"/'051,70.0'"%'

$%'5/&.$+&'."'%&.0',4#5,/0.0'40'"#+:+,70'.0'0+$01'7"40'%$#,701'&7&//,.0'40'7,.0."'.&'

!"7,3";' 5&#+"/,&/' 0&' %&-,%"4+&' <04=$")"0+>' ?+/0-:#' .0#' 5"#@$,#0#' 3&,' 5&##6-"1'

7&%5/""4."/' 5/,%",/0%"4+"' &' @$"' 3&,' &' %&-,%"4+&' <04=$";' 7&%&' #"' ."$' #$0'

/"5/"#"4+0AB&' "#+:+,70' "' 0##,%' 5"/7")"/' 7&%&'"##"#' "1"%"4+&#' #"' /"-"/)"/0/0%' 40'

5/&.$AB&' 0/+6#+,70' 7&4+"%5&/C4"0' .&#' %D#,7&#' /"7,3"4#"#>' ?' 5"#@$,#0' "' 0' 04E1,#"'

7&%50/0+,-0'5/&5&/7,&40/0%'."7&.,3,70/'&#'"1"%"4+&#'/"5/"#"4+0+,-&#'.0'7"40'0+$01;'

@$"'3&/0%'"9"%51,3,70.0#'4&'+/0)012&'."'+/8#')04.0#'@$"'#"/-,/0%'."')0#"'7&47",+$01'

50/0'0'7&4#+/$AB&'.&'5/&.$+&>'('.,/"7,&40%"4+&'.&'5/&*"+&'50$+&$F#"'40#'.,/"+/,G"#'

%"+&.&1H=,70#' ."' I0472"#' JKLLMN;' @$"' &/,"4+&$' 0#' 30#"#' 5/&*"+$0,#' .&'

."#"4-&1-,%"4+&'.&'5/&.$+&;'0/+,7$104.&'."' 3&/%0'&/=04,G0.0'0#'%D1+,510#'-0/,E-",#'

5"/+,4"4+"#'O'5/E+,70'.&'."#,=4"/;'30-&/"7"4.&'&'."#"4-&1-,%"4+&'."'$%'5"4#0%"4+&'

#,#+8%,7&>' P"##0' 3&/%0;' 3&,' 5&##6-"1' 01704A0/' #&1$AQ"#' @$"' /"107,&40/0%' ."' %&.&'

"3,7,"4+"'&#'"1"%"4+&#'7&47",+$0,#'"'0#'4"7"##,.0."#'5/E+,70#'.&'5/&*"+&>'

!"#"$%"&'()"$*+'."#,=4'."'#$5"/367,";'%04=$"'7&4+"%5&/C4"&'"'."#,=4'."'%&.0>'

'

!"#$%&'$'

R2"'0,%'&3'+2,#'#+$.S'T0#'+&'."-"1&5'0'+"9+,1"'#$/307"'+&')"'0551,".',4'0'30#2,&4'

5/&.$7+',4#5,/".')S'+2"'0"#+2"+,7#'&3'+&.0SU#'%$#,7'#7"4"'+&&V'5107"',4'!"7,3";'+2"'

%&-"%"4+'10+"/'<04=$")"0+>'R2/&$=2'/"#"0/72',+'T0#'5&##,)1"'+&'$4."/#+04.'3,/#+'

T20+'T0#'+2"'%&-"%"4+'<04=$";'0#'T0#',+#'0"#+2"+,7'/"5/"#"4+0+,&4'04.'+2$#'

$4."/#+04.'2&T'+2"#"'"1"%"4+#'0/"'/"-"/)"/0+".',4'+2"'0/+,#+,7'5/&.$7+,&4'&3'

7&4+"%5&/0/S'%$#,7,04#'3/&%'!"7,3">'R2"'/"#"0/72'04.'7&%50/0+,-"'0401S#,#'5/&-,.".'

Page 6: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!"#$%&"$%#!'%#(%)(%*%+!,!-.%#%/%0%+!*#"1#!'%#&2((%+!#*&%+%3#4'-&'#4%(%#%5%0)/-1-%$#

-+#!'%#4"(6#"1#!'(%%#7,+$*#!',!#1"(0%$#!'%#&"+&%)!2,/#7,*-*#1"(#!'%#&"+*!(2&!-"+#"1#!'%#

)("$2&!8#9'%#$-(%&!-"+#"1#!'%#)(":%&!#4,*#7,*%$#"+#!'%#0%!'"$"/";-&,/#;2-$%/-+%*#"1#

<,+&'%=#>?@@AB3#4'-&'#$-(%&!%$#!'%#$%*-;+#*)%&-1-&,!-"+#)',*%*#"1#)("$2&!#

$%.%/")0%+!3#+%,!/C#,(!-&2/,!-+;#!'%#02/!-)/%#.,(-,7/%*#(%/%.,+!#!"#!'%#)(,&!-&%#"1#!'%#

$%*-;+%(3#1,."(-+;#!'%#$%.%/")0%+!#"1#,#*C*!%0*#!'-+6-+;8#9'2*#-!#4,*#)"**-7/%#!"#

,&'-%.%#*"/2!-"+*#!',!#%11%&!-.%/C#!'%#(%/,!%$#&"+&%)!2,/#,+$#)(,&!-&,/#+%%$*#"1#!'%#

)(":%&!8#

#

!"#$%&'()#*2(1,&%#$%*-;+3#&"+!%0)"(,(C#D,+;2%#,+$#1,*'-"+#$%*-;+8#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

Page 7: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

!

!

"#$%&'(!

!)!'*+&(,#-.(! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! )/!

!

! !

! )0)!(123+'4("!!!!!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! )5!

! ! !

! ! )0)0)!(6789:;<!=8>?@! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! )5!

! ! !

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)0)0/!(6789:;<A!3AB8CDE:C<A! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! )5!

!

/!F#*,G$3*+G-.(!+3H&'IG! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! /J!

!

!!!!!!!!!!/0)!I3*G!$G*=#3!I(*+3$K(&L*3G! ! ! ! ! ! ! )M!

! !

! !!!!!!/0)0)!!$?NOP868?9Q!$?NOP86:9Q!$?NOP80! ! ! ! ! ! )R!

! !

! !!!!!!!/0)0/!G!3A9S9:C?!T<!$?NOP8Q!?!><PB?!8!?!U<T?0! ! ! ! ! /V!

! !

! !!!!!!/0)0W!I8N?!$?NOP8!I<N98UB<>XN8?!8!?A!6?NT?A!T8!&8C:E80! ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!V/!

Page 8: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

"!!#$%&'()*'+,%-!*',%(%./0)&%-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!12!

13!4+5.)-'!(%-!$'-6.,4(%-!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!27!

23!&%+-)('$489'-!:)+4)-!!!!!!!!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ;<!

$':'$=+&)4-!!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! >7!

!

!

Page 9: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

!"#$%&'"&()#%*+,-%&

%%

%

./0123405(52&62523(7&52&823/(9:.;<&;2/!3<&(;(5=90;<&5<&(>324!2&

/?;72<&52&5240>/&%

C.1+(*/%6D*)*-4%%

%

#+4>*:4%-*%,27*+?@3(*%:8A:(/%(',7(+.-4%'.%3*'.%0.'92*%

34':*074+B'*.E%

%

%

#+4>*:4%-*%9+.-2.IJ4%.7+*,*':.-4%3404%+*K2(,(:4%7.+3(./%7.+.%41:*'IJ4%-4%:@:2/4%-*%

M.3N.+*/% *0%=*,(9'% -4% 52+,4% -*% 9+.-2.IJ4% *0%=*,(9'O% -.% !'()*+,(-.-*% "*-*+./% -*%

#*+'.01234O%5.072,%-4%69+*,:*O%7*/.%,*92(':*%1.'3.%*A.0('.-4+.%340%'4:.U%

%

%

%

%

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV%

#+4?QE"/.)(.%S(00*+/*%-.%;T1+*9.%54,:.% %7+4?*,,4+.%4+(*':.-4+.%

;<3/*4%-*%=*,(9'W!'()*+,(-.-*%"*-*+./%-*%#*+'.01234%

%

%

%

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV%

#+4?QE%6'-+*.%5.0.+94%

;<3/*4%-*%=*,(9'W!'()*+,(-.-*%"*-*+./%-*%#*+'.01234%

%

%

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV%

#+4?QE%X,(,%5N(-(-% %7+4?*,,4+.%34')(-.-.%

".32/-.-*%M4.%Y(.9*0% %Z*3(?*W#$%

Page 10: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

%

=*-(3.-4%.%:4-.,%.,%7*,,4.,%K2*%:()*+.0%-4%0*2%/.-4%'*,,.%3.0('N.-.E%%

6'.%[</(.O%\/*1*+O%"/.)(.%*%0('N.%?.0@/(.E

Page 11: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

%

%

%

%

69+.-*3(0*':4,%

%

#+(0*(+.0*':*% .9+.-*I4% .%0('N.% ?.0@/(.% 74+%

,*07+*% :*+*0% 0*% .74(.-4% *0% 0('N.%

-*3(,]*,O% ./^0% ,*+*0% *,,*'3(.(,% *0% 0('N.%

?4+0.IJ4% 32/:2+./% K2*% 3.-.% -(.% K2*% 7*+3*14%

,*+% 0.(,% (074+:.':*% '.% 0('N.% 34',:+2IJ4%

(':*/*3:2./O% *% K2*% ?4(% -*% 9+.'-*% (074+:B'3(.%

'4%-*,*')4/)(0*':4%-*,,*%7+4>*:4E%

%

!0% */*0*':4% *,,*'3(./% '.% 34',:+2IJ4% -*,,*%

7+4>*:4% ^% .% 7+4?*,,4+.% "/.)(.% S(00*+/*O% K2*%

:*0% ,(-4% 20.% 9+.'-*% +*?*+8'3(.% 7.+.% 4%

-*,*')4/)(0*':4% -.% 0('N.% 34',:+2IJ4%

(':*/*3:2./O% 0*% -R% ,274+:*% 7.+.% +*./(D.+% % 4,%

7*',.0*':4,% K2*% :*'N4O% ./^0% -*% ,*+% 20.%

7*,,4.%?.':R,:(3.O%K2*%,*+)*%-*%+*?*+8'3(.%'4%

K2*% 7+*:*'-4% 34',:+2(+% :.':4% '.% 0('N.%

3.++*(+.O%K2.':4%*0%0('N.%)(-.%7*,,4./E%

%

;J4% 74,,4% *,K2*3*+% -2.,% 7*,,4.,% K2*%

-2+.':*% *,,*,% K2.:+4% .'4,% -*% 9+.-2.IJ4%

*,:()*+.0% >2':4,% 340(94% '*,,.% 3.0('N.-.O%

-()(-('-4% .% 0*':*O% 4,% 7+41/*0.,% *% .,%

,4/2I]*,E%Y./*2O%Y(:4+%*%6'.%[</(._%

%

69+.-*I4% *0% *,7*3(./% L% 7+4?*,,4+.% C*'(%

#*+*(+.%-4,%P.':4,%7*/4%.74(4O%7+('3(7./0*':*%

'.%?.,*% ('(3(./%-*,:*%*,:2-4O% %./^0%-4%?.:4%-*%

:*+% 34/43.-4% L% '4,,.% -(,74,(IJ4% ,2.%

-(,,*+:.IJ4%,41+*%4%:*0.E%P*0%.%0*,0.%:*+(.%

,(-4% 02(:4% R+-24% 4% 3.0('N4% :+(/N.-4O%

*,7*3(./0*':*% 7*/.% ?./:.% -*% +*?*+*'3(./%

:*T+(34%*'34':+.-4E%

Page 12: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

Page 13: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

Z*,204%

`%41>*:()4%-*,:*% :+.1./N4% ?4(% -*,*')4/)*+%20.% ,27*+?@3(*% :8A:(/%7.+.% ,*+%.7/(3.-.%*0%

20%7+4-2:4%-*%04-.%(',7(+.-.%'.%*,:^:(3.%-.%.:2./%3*'.%02,(3./%434++(-.%'.%3(-.-*%-4%

Z*3(?*O% 74,:*+(4+% .4% 04)(0*':4% a.'92*1*.:E% 6:+.)^,% -.,% 7*,K2(,.,% ?4(% 74,,@)*/%

3407+**'-*+% 7+(0*(+.0*':*% 4% K2*% ?4(% 4% 04)(0*':4% a.'92*O% 3404% ,*% -*2% ,2.%

+*7+*,*':.IJ4% *,:^:(3.% *% .,,(0% 7*+3*1*+% 3404%*,,*,% */*0*':4,% ,*% +*)*+1*+.+.0% '.%

7+4-2IJ4% .+:@,:(3.% 34':*074+B'*.% -4,% 0<,(34,% +*3(?*',*,E% 6% 7*,K2(,.% *% .% .'R/(,*%

3407.+.:().%7+474+3(4'.+.0%-*34-(?(3.+%4,%*/*0*':4,%+*7+*,*':.:()4,%-.%3*'.%.:2./O%

K2*%?4+.0%*A*07/(?(3.-.,%'4%:+.1./N4%-*%:+8,%1.'-.,%K2*%,*+)(+.0%-*%1.,*%34'3*(:2./%

7.+.%.%34',:+2IJ4%-4%7+4-2:4E%`%-(+*3(4'.0*':4%-4%7+4>*:4%7.2:42b,*%'.,%-(+*:+(D*,%

0*:4-4/T9(3.,% -*% P.'3N*,% cFGGdeO% K2*% 4+(*':42% .,% ?.,*,% 7+4>*:2.(,% -4%

-*,*')4/)(0*':4%-4%7+4-2:4O%.+:(32/.'-4%-*% ?4+0.%4+9.'(D.-.%.,%0</:(7/.,%).+(R)*(,%

7*+:('*':*,%L%7+R:(3.%-4%-*,(9'*+O%?.)4+*3*'-4%4%-*,*')4/)(0*':4%-*%20%7*',.0*':4%

,(,:80(34E% =*,,.% ?4+0.O% ?4(% 74,,@)*/% ./3.'I.+% ,4/2I]*,% K2*% +*/.3(4'.+.0% -*% 04-4%

*?(3(*':*%4,%*/*0*':4,%34'3*(:2.(,%*%.,%'*3*,,(-.-*,%7+R:(3.,%-4%7+4>*:4E%

!"#"$%"&'()"$*+%-*,(9'%-*%,27*+?@3(*O%0.'92*%34':*074+B'*4%*%-*,(9'%-*%04-.E%

%

(@AB#+CB%

fN*%.(0%4?%:N(,%,:2-g%h.,%:4%-*)*/47%.%:*A:(/*%,2+?.3*%:4%1*%.77/(*-%('%.%?.,N(4'%

7+4-23:%(',7(+*-%1g%:N*%.*,:N*:(3,%4?%:4-.gi,%02,(3%,3*'*%:44j%7/.3*%('%Z*3(?*O%:N*%

04)*0*':%/.:*+%a.'92*1*.:E%fN+429N%+*,*.+3N%(:%h.,%74,,(1/*%:4%2'-*+,:.'-%?(+,:%

hN.:%h.,%:N*%04)*0*':%a.'92*O%.,%h.,%(:,%.*,:N*:(3%+*7+*,*':.:(4'%.'-%:N2,%

2'-*+,:.'-%N4h%:N*,*%*/*0*':,%.+*%+*)*+1*+.:*-%('%:N*%.+:(,:(3%7+4-23:(4'%4?%

34':*074+.+g%02,(3(.',%?+40%Z*3(?*E%fN*%+*,*.+3N%.'-%3407.+.:()*%.'./g,(,%7+4)(-*-%

Page 14: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

:4%-*34-*%:N*%+*7+*,*':.:()*%*/*0*':,%4?%:N*%32++*':%,3*'*O%hN(3N%h*+*%*A*07/(?(*-%

('%:N*%h4+j%4?%:N+**%1.'-,%:N.:%?4+0*-%:N*%34'3*7:2./%1.,(,%?4+%:N*%34',:+23:(4'%4?%:N*%

7+4-23:E%fN*%-(+*3:(4'%4?%:N*%7+4>*3:%h.,%1.,*-%4'%:N*%0*:N4-4/49(3./%92(-*/('*,%4?%

P.'3N*D%cFGGdeO%hN(3N%-(+*3:*-%:N*%-*,(9'%,7*3(?(3.:(4'%7N.,*,%4?%7+4-23:%

-*)*/470*':O%'*.:/g%.+:(32/.:('9%:N*%02/:(7/*%).+(.1/*,%+*/*).':%:4%:N*%7+.3:(3*%4?%:N*%

-*,(9'*+O%?.)4+('9%:N*%-*)*/470*':%4?%.%,g,:*0,%:N('j('9E%fN2,%(:%h.,%74,,(1/*%:4%

.3N(*)*%,4/2:(4',%:N.:%*??*3:()*/g%:N*%+*/.:*-%34'3*7:2./%.'-%7+.3:(3./%'**-,%4?%:N*%

7+4>*3:E%

%

,*-./%0&+%,2+?.3*%-*,(9'O%34':*074+.+g%a.'92*%.'-%?.,N(4'%-*,(9'E%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

%

Page 15: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

%

kXPf6%=$%"XC!Z6P%

"(92+.%HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEFl%

"(92+.%FEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEFd%

"(92+.%mEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEFn%

"(92+.%oEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEmF%

"(92+.%pEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEmm%

"(92+.%lEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEmo%

"(92+.%dEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEmq%

%"(92+.%qEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEmn%

"(92+.%nEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEon%

"(92+.%HGEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEpp%

"(92+.%HHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEpq%

"(92+.%HFEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEpn%

"(92+.%HmEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElG%

"(92+.%HoEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElF%

"(92+.%HpEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElm%

"(92+.%HlEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElp%

"(92+.%HdEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEll%

"(92+.%HqEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEElq%

"(92+.%HnEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEln%

%

%

Page 16: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

%

%

P!arZX`%

%

H%X;fZ`=!st`% % % % % % % % % % % % HF%

%

% %

% HEH%`M[$fXY`P%%%%%% % % % % % % % % % Hl%

% % %

% % HEHEH%`1>*:()4%C*+./% % % % % % % % % Hl%

% % %

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%HEHEF%`1>*:()4,%$,7*3@?(34,% % % % % % % % Hl%

%

F%"!;=6a$;f6st`%f$uZX56% % % % % % % % FG%

%

%%%%%%%%%%FEH%5$;6%a6;C!$%5`;f$a#`Zv;$6% % % % % % % Hq%

% %

% %%%%%%FEHEH%%a.'92*1*.:O%a.'92*1(:O%a.'92*E% % % % % % Hn%

% %

% %%%%%%%FEHEF%6%$,:^:(3.%-4%a.'92*O%.%+427.%*%.%04-.E% % % % % Fo%

% %

% %%%%%%FEHEm%5*'.%a.'92*%54':*074+B'*.%*%.,%1.'-.,%-*%Z*3(?*E% % %%%%%%%%%%%%%oF%

Page 17: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

%

m%%#Z`5$=Xa$;f`P%a$f`=`kuCX5`P%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%op%

oE%6;rkXP$%=`P%Z$P!kf6=`P%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%pH%

pE%5`;PX=$Z6sw$P%"X;6XP%%%%%%%%% % % % % % % % lq%

Z$"$Zx;5X6P%%% % % % % % % % % % % dH%

%

%

Page 18: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

11

!!

"!#!$%&'()*+,(!

!

-(.! (! /)01%&(! )/! 23(4/356/+,(! &/%&(! (! 7(%&18&(! 17(%9.57(! )/! .()/:! 7(.(! ;*/!

/)1<*/+,(! 7'5/&50/! %,(! =! ./5;! *./! <*1;&,(! 3(7/3! (*! %/75(%/3>! ?! .()/! &('%(*@;1! *.!

1.A'11%)5.1%&(! 23(4/3! 1! &()/;! /;! %/+B1;! A/;;/'/.! /! 7(185;&5'! 7(.! /! .1;73/! )1! ;*/;!

&'/)5+B1;! 7(.! (;! )5;7*';(;! 23(4/356/%&1;! CDEFGH:! IJJKL:! 21'/%)(! %(0(;! A'()*&(;! <*1!

)1;A1'&/.!5)1%&5M57/+,(!1!)1;1N(!)1!7(%;*.(>!

E;!M'*&(;!)1;;1!7(%M35&(!)5;7*';50(!1%&'1!/!7*3&*'/!23(4/3!1!/!3(7/3!;,(!'1A'()*65)(;!1.!

M('./!)1!.(05.1%&(;!7*3&*'/5;!;52%5M57/&50(;:!&/3!7(.(!(!M(5!(!.(05.1%&(!O/%2*141/&P!*.!

M1%9.1%(! )1! 2'/%)1! 5.A('&Q%75/:! <*1! 21'(*! %(0/;! ;52%5M57/+B1;! &/%&(! 7*3&*'/5;:! <*/%&(!

;(75/5;>!E!.1;.(! ;*'25*!%/!1M1'01;7R%75/! 7*3&*'/3! 1! /'&S;&57/! '175M1%;1!)/!)=7/)/!)1!"TTJ>!

U/'/! H/%&(;! CIJJV:! A! WL! (!.(05.1%&(! )1%(.5%/)(!./%2*1! (*!O/%2*141/&! A'(.(01*! /!

)50*32/+,(!1!/!5.1)5/&/!A'(35M1'/+,(!)1!5%X.1'(;!S7(%1;!)/!7*3&*'/!3(7/3!)5;;1.5%/%)(!;*/;!

'1M1'R%75/;!;5.4Y357/;P!!

!

?! 35%2*/21.! 1;&=&57/! A'()*65)/! '1M31&5*@;1! %*./! &1%)R%75/! )1! *;(! 1!/A'(A'5/+,(!)1;;1;! S7(%1;!1.!)501';/;!Z'1/;! 7(.(!%/;!/'&1;!A3Z;&57/;:! %/!.X;57/:! %/! )/%+/:! %(! &1/&'(:! 1%&'1! (*&'/;! Z'1/;! A'()*&50/;>! F/! Z'1/! )1!01;&*Z'5(;:! /! %(0/! 1;&=&57/! 7(%&'54*5*! 7(.(! M(%&1! )1! 5%;A5'/+,(! A/'/! /!7'5/+,(!)(!1;&535;&/!G)*/')(![1''15'/>!

!\1;;1!.()(:!(!.(05.1%&(!A'(.(01*!*./!35%2*/21.!1;&=&57/!A/'/!/;!0Z'5/;!Z'1/;!)/!

7*3&*'/:! ;1%)(! 105)1%75/)/! A('! .15(! )/! .X;57/P! ?&'/0=;! )(! O/%2*1! ]1/&! /! .X;57/! =!

Page 19: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

12

C^GHHG_:! IJJW:! A>WJL>! G;&1! .(05.1%&(:! %/<*13/! (7/;5,(:! 5%75&(*! *./! M('./! '1M31850/! )1!

A1%;/'!(!7(&5)5/%(!%/&50(:!(!;1'!`*./%(!1!;*/;!'13/+B1;!7(.!/!;(751)/)1!23(4/356/)/>!!

?;;5.! 7(.(! (;! )1./5;! 1M15&(;! )(! M1%Y.1%(! 7`/./)(! 23(4/356/+,(:! (! .(05.1%&(!

./%2*1!1%7(%&'/@;1!1.!7(%;&/%&1!7(%;&'*+,(:! '1%(0/%)(!;*/;! M('./;!)1!18A'1;;,(:!1!/(!

.1;.(!&1.A(:!./%&1%)(!/32*./;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!('525%/5;>!U/'/!a1,(!CIJJWL:!%/!/&*/35)/)1!

1;&1! .(05.1%&(! /A'1;1%&/! *.! M1%9.1%(! ;Y75(@7*3&*'/3@.*;57/3! 21%*S%/.1%&1!

7(%&1.A('Q%1(! 1! AY;@.()1'%(:! )1.(%;&'/%)(! *.! /A/'1%&1! )1;)(4'/.1%&(! 1.! ;1*;!

A'(71;;(;P! &/%&(! 1.! ;*/;! '1M1'R75/;! 7'5/&50/;! C<*1! A('! 0161;! ;1! )1;7(3/! )/! A1'5M1'5/! A/'/!

;5&*/'@;1!%(!71%&'(!)/;!2'/%)1;!.1&'YA(31;L:!<*/%&(!1.!;*/!M('./!)1!)50*32/+,(!C*&5356/!/!

'1)1! A/'/! ;1! A'(.(01'! 1! )5;A(%545356/'! !"#$%"&!'( 2'/&*5&(;L:! %*./! .5;&*'/! )1!

A/'&57*3/'5)/)1;!1!1871%&'575)/)1;!3(7/5;!7(.!5%&1'%/75(%/356/+,(:!)1.(%;&'/%)(!*.!71%Z'5(!

7*3&*'/3!)1!A3*'/35)/)1!1!)1!7(%;*.(!)1;7/'&Z013!1!.*&/%&1P!!

!?! O/%2*1&(b%! '1013/@;1! AY;@.()1'%/:! 7(;.(A(35&/:! *%501';/3:!/%&'(A(MZ257/>! O/;! &/.4=.! '*'/3:! A/'&57*3/':! '125(%/35;&/>! G%7'*653`/)/;:!7(.A3185)/)1;:! 1''Q%75/;! 7(%&1.A('Q%1/;:! '1A31&/;! )1! &1%;B1;:!5%&(31'Q%75/;:!5%7(.A31&*)1;>!CaGcE:!IJJW:!A>!TL>!!!

F1;&1! 71%Z'5(:! (;! 131.1%&(;! 05;*/5;! 21'/)(;! A('! 1;;1!.(05.1%&(! 7(%;&5&*1.@;1! *.!

M('&1! /A13(! )1! 5)1%&5M57/+,(! A/'/! *.! %57`(! )1! 7(%;*.5)('1;! )1! A'()*&(;! )1! .()/>! \/!

.1;./! M('./! 7(.(! &()/! A'()*+,(! /'&S;&57/! ;1! '13/75(%/! 7(.! *.! AX4357(! <*1:! A('!

7(%;12*5%&1:!0/5!/(;!;`(b;:!7(%;(.1!/!.X;57/!1!7(.A/'&53`/!)1!;*/;!5)=5/;:!*.!A'()*&(!)1!

.()/! 5%;A5'/)(!%1;;/!71%/!=!1.!;5:! 7/A/6!)1! '1M31&5'! /;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! 5)1%&5&Z'5/;!)1! &()/!

*./! 2/./! )1! A1;;(/;>! d! <*1! (! .(05.1%&(! ./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1(! (*! AY;@./%2*1!

'1A'1;1%&/!*./P!

!

-1%/! 7*3&*'/3:! A3*'/3:! A1'.1/)/! A('! ./%5M1;&/+B1;! %/! .X;57/:! 01;&*Z'5(:!2S'5/;:! 21;&(;:! )/%+/:! &1/&'(:! 75%1./:! 35&1'/&*'/>! -/'/7&1'56/)/.1%&1! AY;@

Page 20: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

13

.()1'%(:! 7(;.(A(35&/:! 71%&'/3>! O/'7/)(! A('! *.! 1;&53(! ;5%2*3/'! )1! ;1':!1;&/':! A/'171':! 7(%;*.5':! '1013/':! 415'/%)(! *.! )1&1'.5%/)(! %/'75;5;.(:!./'7/)/.1%&1! '175M1%;1:! A1'%/.4*7/%(>! O*;57/3.1%&1! =! '1A'1;1%&/)(!A13/! 1M1'01;7R%75/! 1! A'(35M1'/+,(! )1! 4/%)/;! 5%)1A1%)1%&1;:! %*./! 71%/!A'1)(.5%/%&1.1%&1! '(<*15'/:! 7(%;(35)/)/! 1! '17(%`175)/! A13/! .S)5/! /!A/'&5'!)/! 5.A3/%&/+,(!)/;!A'(A(;&/;!)(!O(05.1%&(!O/%2*1!<*1:!A('! ;*/!016:! (7(''1*! %/! )=7/)/! )1! TJ! &1%)(! 7(.(! -`57(! H751%71! (! ;1*! A'5%75A/3!18A(1%&1!CaGcE:!IJJW:!A>I"L>!!

e*/%)(!35)/.(;!7(.!(!A'()*&(!)1!.()/:!1%&1%)1.(;!<*1!;1!(!5%)50S)*(!%171;;5&/!)/!

5%)*.1%&Z'5/!A/'/!;1!'1A'1;1%&/'!;(75/3.1%&1!;1!/A'1;1%&/)(!)1!/7(')(!7(.!(;!;1*;!5)1/5;!

1!;*/;!050R%75/;:!=!A('<*1! /!.()/!1!(!01;&*Z'5(:!(!2*/')/@!'(*A/;!)1!7/)/!*.!)1!%Y;!M/61.!

\1;;1!.()(:!(;!

.(05.1%&(;!;(75/5;:!A(3S&57(;!1!17(%9.57(;!71'&/.1%&1!1;&/',(!1.!7(%;(%Q%75/!&1.A('/3!1!

1;A/75/3!7(.!(;!131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;!)1!7(.A(;5+,(!)(!M52*'5%(!<*1!1;7(3`1.(;!A/'/!%(;;/!

7/A/6!)1!18A'1;;/'!)1;1N(;:!0/3('1;:!7(;&*.1;!(*!'13525,(!CH?F^EH:!IJJV:!A>V"L>!

F1;;1!;1%&5)(:!/(!7'5/'!*.!A'()*&(:!(!)1;52%1'!A'175;/!310/'!1.!7(%;5)1'/+,(!(!&5A(!)1!

AX4357(! /! <*1! 131! ;1! )1;&5%/! <*1:! A('! ;*/! 016:! =! 5%M3*1%75/)(! A('! )501';(;! M/&('1;! <*1!

)1&1'.5%/.! ;*/! 1;7(3`/>! e*/%)(! &'/&/.(;! )1! *.! A'()*&(! 0(3&/)(! A/'/! (! AX4357(!

1;A17SM57(:! %,(!(4;&/%&1!)/;!)5M57*3)/)1;! /&'13/)/;! f! 7'5/+,(!)1!1;&/.A/'5/:! (!)1;52%1'! ;1!

)1A/'/! /5%)/! 7(.! /;! 35.5&/+B1;! ('5*%)/;! )(;! `Z45&(;! 1! A'1M1'R%75/;! )(! ;12.1%&(:!

)1&1'.5%/)(;! &/.4=.!7*3&*'/3.1%&1! C^_GU^Eg:! IJJVL>! ?! 5)1%&5M57/+,(! 7(.!)1&1'.5%/)(!

A'()*&(!=!A'(.(05)/!A13(!'17(%`175.1%&(!7*3&*'/3>!U('!1;;/!'/6,(:!%(!7(%&1.A('Q%1(!7/)/!

016! ./5;! (! )1;1%0(305.1%&(! )(! A'()*&(! )1! .()/! '1<*1'! )5;75A35%/:! ;1%;54535)/)1:!

7/A/75)/)1!)1!31'!/;!&1%)R%75/;!7*3&*'/5;!1!&=7%57/!)(!A'(M5;;5(%/3!)1!7'5/+,(!CDEFGH:!IJJKL>!

G;;1!A'(M5;;5(%/3! A'175;/! /A(5/'! ;*/;! 5)=5/;! 1.!)501';/;! M(%&1;! 1! /)1<*/'!(!A'()*&(!/!*.!

Page 21: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

14

%57`(!7/'/7&1'S;&57(!)1!.1'7/)(!1!7/*;/'!5)1%&5M57/+,(:!.*5&/;!0161;!2*5/)(!A13(!;12.1%&(!

)1!/&*/+,(!)1!*./!1.A'1;/!1;A17SM57/!C^_GU^Eg:!IJJVL>!!

E!)1;52%1'!)1!;*A1'MS751!=!(!A'(M5;;5(%/3!<*1!)1;1.A1%`/!/!7'5/+,(!)1!&18&*'/;!05;*/5;!

1h(*! &Z&15;! A/'/! )17('/'! /! ;*A1'MS751! )1! A'()*&(;! 1:! A('&/%&(:! 1;&1! ;12.1%&(! )1! /&*/+,(!

/4'/%21! (! )1;52%! &R8&53! C_i]$O:! IJJjL>! F/! Z'1/! )1! .()/:! <*/%)(! 1;;1;! A'(N1&(;! ;,(!

&'/4/3`/)(;!/!A/'&5'!)(!A'YA'5(!'1A1'&Y'5(!)(!7'5/)(':!A'(.(01.!*.!1M1&50(!)5M1'1%75/3!A/'/!

/;! 7(31+B1;! )1! .()/! CaGk$F]EEl:! IJJmL>! -(%&*)(:! A('! ;1'! *./! Z'1/! )1! 1;&*)(;!

'13/&50/.1%&1!%(0/:!(;!A'(N1&(;!)1!.()/!)1;1%0(305)(;!%/!Z'1/!)1!)1;52%!)1!;*A1'MS751!1.!

A/'&57*3/':! A'(.(01.! *.! M='&53! 7/.5%`(! )1! '1M318B1;>! E;! )1;1%`(;! )1! 1;&/.A/'5/;! (*!

&18&*'/;!0(3&/)(;!A/'/!(!A'()*&(!)(!01;&*Z'5(!1%7(%&'/.@;1! 5%;1'5)(;!%(!7573(!)5%Q.57(!1!

7(%&S%*(!)/!.()/:!7*N/;!.*)/%+/;!(7(''1.!7/)/!016!./5;!'ZA5)/;:!18525%)(!)(!A'(M5;;5(%/3!

/! A'(.(+,(! )1! *.! )5Z3(2(! 1%&'1! ;*/;! 18A1'5R%75/;! 1! 1;;/;! 5%(0/+B1;! CDEFGH:! IJJKn!

^_GU^Eg:!IJJVL>!!

-(%;5)1'/%)(!(;!)1;/M5(;!/75./!/A'1;1%&/)(;:!(!A'1;1%&1!A'(N1&(!A'(A9;!/!7'5/+,(!)1!

*./!1;&/.A/!A/'/!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/!7(.!5%;A5'/+,(!71%/!)(!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1(>!U/'/!

&/%&(:!5%575/3.1%&1!M(5!%171;;Z'5(!5)1%&5M57/'!/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!05;*/5;!/)05%)/;!)(!.(05.1%&(!

O/%2*141/&! (7(''5)(! %(;! /%(;! "TTJ:! 1! /;! /)<*5'5)/;! A(;&1'5('.1%&1:! 10(3*+,(! <*1!

)1%(.5%/.(;! )1! ./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1(>! ?AY;! /! M*%)/.1%&/+,(! &1Y'57/! /71'7/! )/;!

7/&12('5/;! NZ! 310/%&/)/;! 1.! 1;&*)(;! /7/)R.57(;:! 1;;/! /%Z35;1! ;1! )1*! A('! 7(.A/'/+,(! )1!

5./21%;! )(;! /'&5;&/;! )(!O/%2*141/&! )(;! /%(;! TJ:! 7(.! (;! 131.1%&(;! 5)1%&5M57/)('1;! )(;!

2'*A(;! 7(%&1.A('Q%1(;>! ?;;5.:! A'5.15'/.1%&1! 4*;7/'1.(;! 7(.A'11%)1'! (! <*1! M(5! (!

.(05.1%&(!O/%2*141/&!1!/!1;&=&57/!21'/)/!A13(!.1;.(:!A(;&1'5('.1%&1!M('/.!/%/35;/)/;!1!

7(.A/'/)/;! f;! 5./21%;! )(;! /'&5;&/;! /&*/5;:! 4*;7/%)(! M/61'! *.! A/'/313(! 1%&'1! 1;;1! )(5;!

A1'S()(;>! ?;! 5./21%;! *&5356/)/;! %/! /%Z35;1! M('/.! A'(01%51%&1;! )1! M(&(;! &5'/)/;! %(;! ;`(b;!

Page 22: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

15

A13(!A'YA'5(! A1;<*5;/)('! 1! &/.4=.!A('! (*&'/;! '1A'1;1%&/+B1;! 05;*/5;!)1;;1;! /'&5;&/;:! &/5;!

7(.(!7/A/;!)1!7);:!AZ25%/;!)/!5%&1'%1&:!7/'&/61;!)1!;`(b;!1!)1./5;!'1A'1;1%&/+,(!1;&=&57/!

)(;!.1;.(;>!!

i./!)/;!)5M57*3)/)1;!<*1!5%575/3.1%&1!05;*/356Z0/.(;!A()1'!1%7(%&'/'!%/!1817*+,(!)(!

A'(N1&(! M(5! f! 7(%)5+,(! )1! <*1! /;! )5M1'1%+/;! 1;&=&57/;! 1%&'1! /;! '1M1'R%75/;! )(! .(05.1%&(!

./%2*1! )(;! /%(;! TJ! 1! )/! /&*/35)/)1! M(;;1.! .*5&(! ;*&5;>! G;;1! M/&(! /5%)/! ;*;75&/0/! /!

A(;;54535)/)1! )1! <*1! /;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! A1'&5%1%&1;! /(! 7(%&18&(! A/'&57*3/'1;! )(;! /'&5;&/;!

A1;<*5;/)(;!M(;;1.!.*5&(!)501';/;!)/;!1%7(%&'/)/;!%/!)=7/)/!)/!A/;;/)/!C%/!4/%)/!-`57(!o!

F/+,(!p*.45!L:!(!<*1!/.1/+/0/!5.A(;;54535&/'!(!A'(71;;(!7(.A/'/&50(>!-(.!1;;/!)5M57*3)/)1!

310/%&/)/:! /! 1;7(3`/! )(;! /'&5;&/;! /! ;1'1.! A1;<*5;/)(;! ;1! &('%(*! )1&1'.5%/%&1P! M('/.!

;13175(%/)(;! 7*5)/)(;/.1%&1! (;! /'&5;&/;! )/! 21'/+,(! ./5;! '171%&1:! <*1! 7/''12/0/.!

18A3575&/.1%&1!/;!'1M1'R%75/;!)(!.(05.1%&(!./%2*1!)(;!/%(;!TJ>!

?!7(%&'54*5+,(!)1;;1!A'(N1&(!;1!)Z!18/&/.1%&1!A('!.15(!)/!A'()*+,(!)1!*.!A'()*&(!

5%;A5'/)(! %1;;/! 71%/:! 7/*;/%)(! &/%&(! /! (8521%/+,(! )1! *.! .(05.1%&(! 7*3&*'/3:! 7(.(! f!

'1M318,(! )1! ;*/! 5.A('&Q%75/>! -(.! 5;;(:! /! A/'&5'! )(! /A('&1! &1Y'57(! )1! 7(%`175.1%&(;! )/;!

Z'1/;!)1!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)1!A'()*&(!1.!)1;52%!1!)1!.()/:!*&5356/.(;!/! &'/%;A(;5+,(!)1!

*./! &1.Z&57/! )1! A1;<*5;/! 7(%&1.A('Q%1/! A/'/! /! 7(%;&'*+,(! )1! *.! A'()*&(! )1! .()/:!

A'(.(01%)(!'1M318B1;!/71'7/!)/;!<*1;&B1;!)/!1;&=&57/!%/!/&*/35)/)1>!

G;;1!A'(N1&(!;1!M('&/3171!A('!;1!/4(')/'!*.!A'(71;;(!)1!7(%;&'*+,(!)1!*.!A'()*&(!)1!

.()/!1!;*/!M('&1!'13/+,(!7(.!(!*;*Z'5(:!'1M31&5%)(!/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!7*3&*'/5;!)1!*.!AX4357(!

)1! )1&1'.5%/)(! 3(7/3! C_175M1L:! %*.! 7(%&18&(! 1;A17SM57(! C.*%)(! 352/)(! 1.! '1)1L! (%)1! (!

A'()*&(! 1! (! .(05.1%&(! A(;;*1.! *./! )5;;1.5%/+,(! 23(4/3>! \1;;1! .()(:! (! .1;.(!

M*&*'/.1%&1! A()1'Z! ('51%&/'! /! A'Z&57/! )1! )1;52%1';! <*1! A'1&1%)/.! &'/4/3`/'!

)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)1!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/!05%7*3/)(;!f!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!1;&=&57/;!)1!.(05.1%&(;!

Page 23: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

16

;(75/5;:!*./!016!<*1!(!A'(N1&(!A/*&(*@;1!%/!/A357/+,(!)1!*./!.1&()(3(25/!1;A17SM57/!A/'/!

Z'1/>!

?;;5.:!1;;1!)(7*.1%&(!&1.!7(.(!M*%+,(!/A'1;1%&/'!(!A'(71;;(!)1!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!

)1!*./!;*A1'MS751!&R8&53! 5%;A5'/)/!%/!71%/!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/>!F(!A'5.15'(!.(.1%&(!

;1'Z!/A'1;1%&/)(!(!310/%&/.1%&(!&1Y'57(!M15&(!A/'/!4/;1/'!/!7(%;&'*+,(!A'Z&57/!)(!A'()*&(>!

U(;&1'5('.1%&1!/;!1&/A/;!A1'7(''5)/;!%(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!MS;57(!)(!(4N1&(!;1',(!18A(;&/;:!

)1;)1! (;! 1;4(+(;! /&=! (! A'()*&(! M5%/356/)(>! U('! M5.! 1;&/',(! /A'1;1%&/)/;! /;! X3&5./;!

7(3(7/+B1;!)(!A1;<*5;/)(':!*.!/A/%`/)(!21'/3!;(4'1!(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)(!A'(N1&(>!!

E;! 7/AS&*3(;! ;12*5%&1;! /A'1;1%&/.! 7(.!./5;! A'(M*%)5)/)1! (! <*1! M(5! &'/&/)(! %1;;1!

&18&(:!1!)1.(%;&'/.!(!A'(71;;(!)1!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!A'(N1&*/3!/A357/)(>!!

!

">"!E4N1&50(;!

">">"!E4N1&50(!q1'/3!

!U'(N1&/'!*./!;*A1'MS751!&R8&53!A/'/!*.!A'()*&(!)1!.()/!5%;A5'/)(!%/!71%/!

./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/>!

!

">">I!E4N1&50(;!G;A17SM57(;!

!

G;&*)/'!(!.(05.1%&(!./%2*1!)1.(%;&'/%)(!;*/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!1;&=&57/;n!!

$)1%&5M57/'!/;!.*)/%+/;!1;&=&57/;!7/*;/)/;!A13(!.(05.1%&(!)(!./%2*1!%(!

7(%&1.A('Q%1(n!!

U'(N1&/'!;*A1'MS751!&R8&53!C)1;1%0(305.1%&(!A'(N1&*/3L!

Page 24: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

17

!

!

I!#![*%)/.1%&/+,(!&1Y'57/!

!

F1;&/!1&/A/!;1',(!/A'1;1%&/)/;!/;!4/;1;!&1Y'57/;!A/'/!(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)(!A'(N1&(:!

)1!/7(')(!7(.!(;!(4N1&50(;!21'/5;!1!1;A17SM57(;!/A'1;1%&/)(;!/%&1'5('.1%&1>!G;;/!M/;1!/4'1!

1;A/+(!A/'/!(!1%&1%)5.1%&(!)(!<*1!;1!M/3/!/!'1;A15&(!)(!&1./:!5%M('./%)(!;(4'1!(!(4N1&(!

)1!1;&*)(!<*1!;1'Z!/%/35;/)(:!A1'.5&5%)(!/(!315&('!A1'7141'!(;!/3571'71;!<*1!1.4/;/'/.!/!

7(%;&'*+,(!)(!A'()*&(>!U/'/!/!7'5/+,(!)1!<*/3<*1'!&5A(!)1!(4N1&(!=!%171;;Z'5(!7(.A'11%)1'!

A'5.15'/.1%&1!(!&1./!/!A/'&5'!)(!<*/3!;1'Z!)1;1%0(305)(>!\1;;1!.()(:!(!A'5.15'(!7/AS&*3(!

5'Z! )1.(%;&'/'! (! <*1! M(5! (! .(05.1%&(! ./%2*1:! 7(.(! ;1! 7(.A('&(*:! )1! <*1! M('./! ;1!

/A'1;1%&(*:!1!(!;1*!'1M318(!%/!/&*/35)/)1:!A1'.5&5%)(!/;;5%/3/'!/;!;1.13`/%+/;!1!)5M1'1%+/;:!

7(.!M5%;!)1!7/'/7&1'56/'!;1*;!/;A17&(;!7(%&1.A('Q%1(;>!!

!

I>">!-1%/!O/%2*1!-(%&1.A('Q%1/!

!

!U/'/! (! 1%&1%)5.1%&(! )/! 71%/! ./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1/! ;1'Z! %171;;Z'5(:! 1.! *.!

A'5.15'(! .(.1%&(:! '1/356/'! *.! 310/%&/.1%&(! `5;&Y'57(! )(! <*1! M(5! (! .(05.1%&(!

O/%2*141/&!<*1! 5%575(*!%/!)=7/)/!)1!TJ:! ;*/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!1! 3Y257/!)1! M*%75(%/.1%&(>!

U(;&1'5('.1%&1! ;1'Z! 01'5M57/)/! /! 1;&=&57/! 7(%7145)/!A13(!.(05.1%&(>! U('! M5.:! /&'/0=;! )(!

.=&()(!7(.A/'/&50(! ;1',(!05;*/356/)/;!/;!)5M1'1%+/;!1! ;1.13`/%+/;!1%&'1!(!O/%2*141/&!

(7(''5)(! %(;! /%(;! TJ! 1! (! <*1! /7(%&171! %/! /&*/35)/)1:! /;;5.! 7/'/7&1'56/%)(! (! <*1!

)1%(.5%/.(;!)1!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1(>!

Page 25: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

18

!

"#$#$!%&'()*+!%&'()*,*&-+!%&'()*,.-#!

!

E!O/%2*1:!O/%2*141/&!(*!O/%2*145&! ;,(!)1%(.5%/+B1;!*&5356/)/;!A/'/!)1M5%5'! *.!

.(05.1%&(!7*3&*'/3!<*1!%/;71*!)*'/%&1!(;!/%(;!"TTJ!%/!75)/)1!)1!_175M1:!1.!U1'%/.4*7(>!

E!.1;.(! M*%)(*@;1!%/! 5%&1%+,(!)1! /M/;&/'!(!./'/;.(!7*3&*'/3!A'1;1%&1!%/! 75)/)1!%1;;1!

A1'S()(:!4*;7/%)(!7'5/'!*./!71%/!7*3&*'/3!<*1!;1!7(%17&/;;1!7(.!(!.*%)(!*&5356/%)(!A/'/!

&/%&(!)1!/;A17&(;!7*3&*'/5;!3(7/5;!C'1A1'&Y'5(L!7(.(!M*%)/.1%&(!)5;7*';50(>!?!('521.!A/'&5*!

1;A175M5.1%&1!)/!5%<*51&*)1!)1!*.!2'*A(!)1!N(01%;!<*1!)175)5*!A('!7(.A/'/'!1!)5;;1.5%/'!

/;!./613/;!)1!;*/!75)/)1!C&1./;!<*1!/M3525/.!*./!18A'1;;50/!A/'713/!)/!A(A*3/+,(!<*1!;1!

;1%&5/!1873*S)/L!.1)5/%&1!/;!7(%)5+B1;!)/!23(4/356/+,(:!%/;!<*/5;:!)1;)1!(!A1'S()(:!1;&/.(;!

5''1.1)5Z013.1%&1!5%;1'5)(;!C[EFHG-?:!IJJKn!q?OG$_E:!IJJrL>!

F(!.(.1%&(!/%&1'5('!/(!./%2*141/&:!/!75)/)1!)1!_175M1:!)1!M/&(:!;1!1%7(%&'/0/!1.!

*.! .(.1%&(! )1! 5%='75/! 7*3&*'/3>! ?! A'()*+,(! )1;;/! =A(7/! (*! 1;&101! .*5&(! 05%7*3/)/! /!

7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!'125(%/5;!'1./%1;71%&1;!)(!O(05.1%&(!?'.('5/3":!(*!A('!(*&'/:!05%7*3/)/!/!

'/.! /3=.! )5;;(:! 35.5&/0/.@;1! /!

7(A5/' ! (*! 5.5&/' ! /!.X;57/! A(A! /.1'57/%/! (*! 4'5&Q%57/>! $;;(! M(5! 7/*;/%)(! *.! 7'1;71%&1!

5%79.()(!1.!/32*%

A>!KL>!!

"! ! E!O(05.1%&(! ?'.('5/3! ;*'25*! ;(4! /! 5%;A5'/+,(! 1! )5'1+,(! )1! ?'5/%(! H*/;;*%/:! 7(.! /! 7(3/4('/+,(! )1! *.!2'*A(!)1!/'&5;&/;!1!1;7'5&('1;!)/!'125,(!F(')1;&1!)(!]'/;53!1!(!/A(5(!)(!\1A/'&/.1%&(!)1!G8&1%;,(!-*3&*'/3!)/!U'Y@_15&('5/! A/'/! ?;;*%&(;! -(.*%5&Z'5(;! )/! i%501';5)/)1! [1)1'/3! )1! U1'%/.4*7(>! H1*! (4N1&50(! M(5! (! )1!0/3('56/'!/!7*3&*'/!A(A*3/'!)(!F(')1;&1!4'/;5315'(:!A'1&1%)1%)(!'1/356/'!*./!/'&1!4'/;5315'/!1'*)5&/!/!A/'&5'!)/;!'/S61;!A(A*3/'1;!)/!7*3&*'/!)(!U/S;!Cq?HU?_:!IJ"JL!

Page 26: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

19

!\5/%&1! )/! 5%;/&5;M/+,(! 1.! '13/+,(! /! 1;;/! 71%/! )1! ./'/;.(! 7*3&*'/3! M'1%&1! /(;!

/7(%&175.1%&(;! )1! (')1.! 23(4/3! 1! 5%X.1'/;! )5M57*3)/)1;! 3(7/5;:! *.! 2'*A(! )1! /.52(;!

M('./)(;! A('! /'&5;&/;! )1! )501';/;! Z'1/;! <*1! &5%`/.! /! .X;57/! 7(.! 5%&1'1;;1! 7(.*.:!

7(.1+/'/.!/!)1;1%0(301'!*./!.(05.1%&/+,(!5%;A5'/)/!%(!<*1!/7(%&175/!1.!(*&'(;!3*2/'1;!

)(!.*%)(:!4*;7/%)(!/%&1;!)1!&*)(!/!)501';,(>!G.!1%&'105;&/!/!O(%+('1;!CIJJr:!A>IIL:!['1)!

Jj:!*.!)(;!/'&5;&/;@4/;1!)(!O/%2*141/&:!/M5'./P!!

!F(! 5%S75(! )/! .(05.1%&/+,(! &()/:! 1'/! .*5&(! ./5;! 05;/%)(! *./! 7(5;/! )1!)501';,(:! )1! 7*'&5+,(:! )1! M/''/:! )(! <*1! )1! 7'5/'! *.! .(05.1%&(! 1! &1%&/'!'(.A1'! 7(.!/32*./!7(5;/>!F,(!1'/!%/)/!.*5&(! '1M31&5)(!%1.!A1%;/)(>!?!21%&1! ;1! 4/;1(*! 1.! 7(5;/! 312/5;! <*1! /! 21%&1! &5%`/! 7(.(! '1M1'R%75/! )1!71%/;!1;A/3`/)/;!A13(!.*%)(!s>>>t>!!!

!!?! 5)=5/! )1! *;/'! /;A17&(;! )/! 7*3&*'/! 3(7/3! 7(.(! 131.1%&(! )(! .(05.1%&(! ;*'25*! )1!

M('./! %/&*'/3:! M(5! '1M318(! )/;! 050R%75/;! )(;! A/'&575A/%&1;! )(!./%2*1:! <*1! A(;;*S/.! *./!

352/+,(! 7(.! 71'&(;! 131.1%&(;! )/! 7*3&*'/! 3(7/3>! i.! )(;! A'5%75A/5;! %(.1;! )(!.(05.1%&(:!

-`57(!H751%71!A/'&575A/0/!)1!*.!2'*A(!.*;57/3!7`/./)(!a(*;&/3:!<*1!&(7/0/!`5A!`(A!1!M*%u!

1!)175)5*! ;1!*%5'!/!(*&'(!4/%)/:!/! a/.1%&(!F12'(!<*1! ;1! 5%;A5'/0/!1.!43(7(;! )1! ! 7*3&*'/!

/M'()1;71%&1!4/5/%(;:!7(.(!E3()*.!1!$3R!?vR>!H12*%)(!H/%)'(%5!CIJJT:!A>!rKLP!

!

?!A'(A(;&/!)1!-`57(!1'/!.5;&*'/'!1;;/;!)*/;!;(%('5)/)1;:!A('=.!/(!5%0=;!)1! ;1! '1M1'5'!/(;! '5&.(;!4/5/%(;:! &(7/'! '5&.(;!A(A*3/'1;! !A1'%/.4*7/%(;:!7(.(! (! ./'/7/&*>! d! (! '1;*3&/)(! )1;;/! M*;,(! <*1! ;1'Z! /%*%75/)(! 7(.(!

!!

!!\1;;1! .()(:! (! &1'.(! ./%2*1! ;*'25*! %/! 5)=5/! )1! 7'5/'! *./! .1&ZM('/! 1%&'1! /!

45()501';5)/)1!)/!0121&/+,(!A'1;1%&1!)(!_175M1!1!/!A3*'/35)/)1!)1!./%5M1;&/+B1;!A(A*3/'1;!

&/.4=.!A'1;1%&1;!%/!75)/)1P!

!

Page 27: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

20

E!./%2*1!=!7/'/7&1'56/)(!A13/!&'(7/!)1!./&='5/!('2Q%57/!1%&'1!/!Z2*/!)(71!1! /! ;/32/)/:! (! ./%2*1! '1A'1;1%&/! *.! )(;! 17(;;5;&1./;! ./5;! '57(! %(!.*%)(:! 7(%;5)1'/)(! 7(.(! (! .15(! M*%)/.1%&/3! )/! 7/)15/! /35.1%&/'!./'5%`/>!?;;5.:!(;!./%2*1;!;,(!(!;S.4(3(!)/!M1'&535)/)1:!)/!)501';5)/)1!1!)/!'5<*16/>!E!.(05.1%&(!;1'5/:!)1;;/!M('./:!&,(!'57(!1!)501';5M57/)(!<*/%&(!(!./%2*1!C^GHHG_:!IJJW:!A>WjL>!!

!!

!-(.(!05.(;:!/!A'YA'5/!%(.1%73/&*'/!./%2*1!;*21'1!&/.4=.!*./!A'(85.5)/)1!7(.!/!

75)/)1:!105)1%75/%)(!/!7/'/7&1'S;&57/!*'4/%/!)(!.(05.1%&(>!?!1;7(3`/!)1;;1!131.1%&(!&,(!

75)/)1! )1! _175M1! =! 4/%`/)/! A('! '5(;! 1! 1'2*5)/! ;(4'1! ./%2*16/5;:! 1! /! '13/+,(! 1%&'1! /!

A(A*3/+,(! 1! (!./%2*1!=! )1! 2'/%)1! 5%&

COEFwE_GH:!IJJr:!A>IVL>!!

!?3=.!)5;;(:!/!'1M1'R%75/!A/'/!(!;*'25.1%&(!)(!.(05.1%&(!A/'&5*!)/;!71%/;!7*3&*'/5;!

)1!2'/%)1;!75)/)1;!)(!.*%)(>!G;;/!/M5'./+,(!;1!4/;15/!%(!<*1!['1)!Jj!)56!1.!1%&'105;&/!/!

O(%+

$%23/&1''/:! /! 71%/! )/! D/./57/:! /! 71%/! )/!g('3)!O*;57! %/! ['/%+/:! /! 71%/! )(! `5A@`(A! %(;!

!

!\1%&'1!/;!75)/)1;!75&/)/;:!A()1.(;!)1;&/7/'!/!)1!O/%7`1;&1':!41'+(!)(!.(05.1%&(!

A*%u:!(!<*/3!(!O/%2*141/&!4*;7(*!'1M1'R%75/;>!?!M53(;(M5/!A*%u:!(!!)(@5&@

/*&(%(.5;&/! )/! A'()*+,(! 7*3&*'/3! <*1! ]?H^EH:! IJJKL! M(5!

3/'2/.1%&1! 1.A'12/)/! A13(! O/%2*1! 41/&:! 05;&(! <*1! 131;! '1/356/0/.! ;1*;! &'/4/3`(;! )1!

M('./!5%)1A1%)1%&1:!;1.!'17(''1'!/!;*4;S)5(;!A'50/)(;>!! U('! 1;;/! '/6,(:! M(5! %171;;Z'5(! ;1!

&'/4/3`/'! 1.! 7(31&50(! A/'/! 7(%;12*5'! 21'/'! 05;54535)/)1! 1! M('+/! /(! .(05.1%&(:! A(5;! 1;;1!

7/'Z7&1'! 5%)1A1%)1%&1!A(;575(%/0/!(!O/%2*1!%*.!75'7*5&(!*%)1'2'(*%)!1!A1'5M='57(:!(%)1!

!

Page 28: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

21

!?3=.! )/! <*1;&,(! )(! ./'/;.(! %/! A'()*+,(! 7*3&*'/3:! %1;;1! A1'S()(! (! _175M1! ;1!

1%7(%&'/0/!%*./!;5&*/+,(!A1'5M='57/!1!%12/&50/:!;1%)(!73/;;5M57/)/!A13(!$]qG!7(.(!/!<*/'&/!

A5('!75)/)1!)(!.*%)(:!(%)1!.1&/)1!)/!A(A*3/+,(!.('/0/!1.!M/013/;!1!/3/2/)(;>!?!A1'5M1'5/!

1! /! 1873*;,(! 1'/! &1./;! )/;! .X;57/;! )(! .(05.1%&(! <*1! '1&'/&/0/.! (! 7/(;! *'4/%(>!

?2'12/%)(!1;;1;!131.1%&(;!/(!)5;7*';(!)(!O/%2*1:!;*'21!*.!(*&'(!;S.4(3(!/(!.(05.1%&(:!

/!3/./!7(.(!*./!.1&ZM('/!;1!'1M1'1%75/%)(!/(;!1873*S)(;:!1.!*./!75)/)1!7(%;&'*S)/!;(4'1!

/!!./%2*16/5;!1!(%)1!/!A(A*3/+,(!A(4'1!0505/!%(!;*;&'/&(!)/!75)/)1P!!!

!

?;! 31&'/;! )/;! .X;57/;:! '1A31&/;! )1! M52*'/;! )1! 35%2*/21.! /;;(75/)/;! f!.1&ZM('/! )(!./%2*1! 1! *;/)/;! A/'/! M/61'! 7'S&57/;! ;(75/5;! 7(%&*%)1%&1;:! (!O(05.1%&(! /)575(%(*! /! )5;7*;;,(! ;(4'1! 75)/)/%5/! 1! 5)1%&5)/)1! 7*3&*'/3:!*;/%)(!.1&/M('57/.1%&1!/!3/./!)(!./%2*1!A/'/!&'/&/'!)/!1873*;,(!;(75/3!1!

!!

!!E!O/%2*1!/7(%&171!/5%)/!1.!*.!.(.1%&(!`5;&Y'57(!1.!<*1!(!/71;;(!/! 5%M('./+,(!

/7(%&175/! ;1.! 2'/%)1;! )5M57*3)/)1;:! A/'&5%)(! )1! )501';/;! M(%&1;>! \1;;/! M('./! (;!

A/'&575A/%&1;!)(!O/%2*

'Z)5(:!%*./!=A(7/!1.!<*1!/;!5%M('./+B1;!C)5;7(;:!350'(;:!0S)1(;L!7(.1+/0/.! /! 75'7*3/'!

7(.!./5;!

7(%&1X)(;!)1! M('./!)1;71%&'/356/)/! 1! 7(%;&'(1.!/! 5)1%&5)/)1! `S4'5)/!)(;!./%2*14(v;!1!

./%2*125'3;:! %(.1! 7(.(! 1'/.! 7`/./)(;! (;! A/'&575A/%&1;! )/! 71%/! O/%2*141/&>! -`57(!

H751%71!)1.(%;&'/!1;;/!)501';5)/)1!)1!'1M1'R%75/;!1.!^131;!CIJJJ:!A>!K@rLP!!

!

7/(;:! b(')!.*;57:! 3125;3/+,(! )1! 7(.*%57/+,(:! 7(%M35&(;! =&%57(;:! x5A! x(A:!/7/;(:! '1/35)/)1! 05'&*/3:! ;18(:! )1;52%:! 05(3R%75/! 1! &()(;! (;! /0/%+(;! )/!<*S.57/!/A357/)/!/(!&1''1%(!)1!/3&1'/+,(!1!18A/%;,(!)/!7(%;75R%75/>!

!! !

Page 29: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

22

!?!.5;&*'/!)1! '1M1'R%75/;! ;1! '1M31&1!%/! M('./+,(!)(!O/%2*141/&!(*!O/%2*145&:!<*1!

A13(!A'YA'5(! &1'.(! NZ! ;1!05%7*3/!/!1;;/!.5;&*'/>!?!0121&/+,(! 3(7/3!)(!./%2*1! ;1! N*%&/!/(!

&1'.(! 5%23R;! 41/&:! <*1! ;52%5M57/! 4/&5)/:! '1M1'R%75/! /! .X;57/:! (*! )*+:! )/! 35%2*/21.! )1!

7(.A*&/)('1;! <*1! ;52%5M57/! *%5)/)1! .S%5./! )1! /'./61%/.1%&(! )1! 5%M('./+,(>! ?;;5.! /!

71%/:!NZ!7/''12/!1.!;1*!%(.1!/!5)=5/!)1!A3*'/35)/)1!'1M1'1%75/3!<*1!%('&15/!&()/!/!;*/!3Y257/!

)1!A'()*65'!/32(!7(.!/;A17&(;!'125(%/5;:!A('=.!<*1!A(;;/.!;1!7(.*%57/'!7(.!(!'1;&(!)(!

.*%)(:! ;*'25%)(! /;;5.! (! ;S.4(3(! )/! A/'/4Y357/! 7'/0/)/! %/! 3/./>!O(%+('1;! CIJJr:! A>jJL!

054'/+B1;! )(;! ./%2*1;! 7(.! /! '1)1! .*%)5/3! )1! 75'7*3/+,(! )1! 7(%715&(;! A(A>! $./21.!

!

!E*&'(! ;S.4(3(! )(! O/%2*1! M(5! (! `(.1.@7/'/%2*1N(! <*1! ;1! '1M1'5/! /! *.! &18&(! )(!

`*./%5;&/! D(;*=! )1! -/;&'(:! <*1! M/3/0/! )/! A'17/'51)/)1! <*1! 0505/! /! A(A*3/+,(! A(4'1! )/!

75)/)1!)(!_175M1>!E!&18&(!)(!'(./%71!x(.1%;!1!-/'/%2*1N(;!)1!"TrW!M/3/!)(!7573(!1.!<*1!(!

`(.1.!A(4'1!<*1!0501!%(;!./%2*16/5;!)/!75)/)1!)(!_175M1!;1!/35.1%&/!)(!7/'/%2*1N(;:!<*1!

A('!;*/!016!;1!/35.1%&/.!)(!)1N1&(;!A'()*65)(;!A('!1;;1!A'YA'5(!`(.1.>!?;;5.!(!`(.1.!

7/'/%2*1N(! '1M('+/! (! 7/'Z&1'! 7'S&57(:! <*1! (! ./%2*1! &5%`/! )1! M/3/'! )/;! ./613/;! ;(75/5;! /;!

'17(%;&'*5%)(!1.!/'&1:!&/3!7(.(!/M5'./!O(%+('1;!CIJJr:!A>IVLP!!!

!

?! (4'/! )1! D(;*=! =! *&5356/)/! 7(.(! '1M1'R%75/! 1.! 0Z'5(;! &'/4/3`(;! )(!O/%2*141/&>! U'5%75A/3.1%&1! 1.! /%/3(25/! f! '13/+,(! 1%&'1! *./! _175M1!)17/)1%&1!1!;*/;!%(0/;!A(;;54535)/)1;!7'5/&50/;!C7(.(!/!3/./!;*N/!21'/%)(!05)/L>!

!!

!i./! (*&'/! M('&1! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/! )(! O/%2*1! =! *;(! )(! `*.('! 7(.(! /;A17&(! )1! ;*/!

131.1%&(! .*5&(! A'1;1%&1:! &/%&(! %(! ;1*! 21;&*/3! <*/%&(! %/;! 31&'/;! )/;! .X;57/;:! ./;:!

Page 30: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

23

IJJW:!A>!WKL>!!

!G;;1! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/:! A('! ;*/! 016:! '1A'1;1%&/! *.! '1M318(! )/;! '13/+B1;! .1)5/)/;! A13/!

7*3&*'/!A(A*3/'!A1'%/.4*7/%/:!7/A/6!)1!&'/%;M('./'!/!'1/35)/)1:!1!21'/'!(*&'(;!;52%(;!A/'/!

(;!/7(%&175.1%&(;!)(!)5/@)5/>!!G;;/!/M5'./+,(!1%7(%&'/!'1M('+(!%/!/%Z35;1!)1!^1;;1'!CIJJW:!

A>!WrLP!

!

E! ./'/7/&*! '*'/3! &'/6! 7(.! ;*/! 1;&=&57/! s>>>t! (! 7/'Z&1'! &'/%;2'1;;50(! )/;! M1;&/;!A(A*3/'1;:!s>>>t!<*1!/&'/0=;!)(!'5;(:!)/!A/'Y)5/:!)/!M/';/!4*'31;7/:!A13/!)/%+/!1!A13/!.X;57/:!A13(!2'(&1;7(:!A13/! M1;&/!A(A*3/':! 0,(! ;*401'&1'! /!%('./35)/)1! 7(&5)5/%/!%*./!5%01';,(!)(;!;1%&5)(;!(M575/5;!)/)(;!/(;!M/&(;>!!

!\/!.1;./!M('./:!H/%&(;!CIJJV:!A!VmL:!7(.A31.1%&/P!

!?! )50*32/+,(! )/;! .X;57/;! )1! -`57(! o! F/+,(! p*.45! %/! .S)5/! )1;1%7/)1(*! /!/A'(A'5/+,(! )(! ;S.4(3(!./%2*1:! (! 7/'/%2*1N(! 1! /! /%&1%/! A/'/4Y357/! M5%7/)/! %/!3/./:!/3=.!)/!18/3&/+,(!)1! S7(%1;!)(!./'/7/&*:!)(!7(7(!)1! '()/:!)/!75'/%)/:!)(!M'10(:!)(!8/8/)(!1!)(!.(05.1%&(!%12'(>!

!

!

"#$#"!/!*0-1-.2&!34!%&'()*+!&!54)6&!*!&!743&!

!

?%&1;!)1!05;*/356/'!/!1;&=&57/!21'/)/!A13(!O/%2*141/&!=!%171;;Z'5(!7(.A'11%)1'!7(.!

<*1! ;1%&5)(! (! '1M1'5)(! &1'.(! ;1! 05%7*3/>! U/'&5%)(!)(! <*1! A'(AB1.!O/MM1;(35! CIJJK:! A>L! /!

'1;A15&(!)(!&1./:!;1!7`12/!/!*./!/%Z35;1!/4'/%21%&1!1!7(.A318/:!<*1!!7/'/7&1'56/!(!&1./!

1;&=&57/!%*.!;1%&5)(!/.A3(:!7(.(!'1;*3&/)(!)/!185;&R%75/!1!M(%&1!A/'/!(!1%&1%)5.1%&(!)/!

1!7(.A'11%)1'!7(.(!/!

!

?! 1;&=&57/! 1%&,(! /A/'171! 7(.(! *./! 1;A=751! )1! .1)5/)('! ;(75/3:! *.! A(%&(! )1!

'1M1'R%75/! (%)1! (;! A1%;/.1%&(;! 1! 5)=5/;! )(! 5%)50S)*(! &'/%;71%)1.! 1;;1! 1;A/+(! X%57(! 1!

Page 31: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

24

'1;&'5&(! C1;A/+(! )(! A1%;/.1%&(L!

CO?[[GHEa$:!IJJK:!A>"VL>!

-(.A'11%)1%)(!/!1;&=&57/!)1;&/! M('./:!(*! ;1N/:! 7(.(!/!7(%7'1&56/+,(!(*! '1013/+,(!

)(;!A1%;/.1%&(;!;(75/5;!)1!)1&1'.5%/)/!=A(7/:!1!&1%)(!;5)(!(!O/%2*141/&!*.!.(05.1%&(!

)1!M('&1!'13/+,(!7(.!(;!/%;15(;!)1!)1&1'.5%/)/!;(751)/)1!%*.!A1'S()(!1;A17SM57(:!1%&,(!(;!

;52%(;! 21'/)(;! A13(! .1;.(! ;1! 7(%;&5&*1.! 7(.(! 5.A('&/%&1! 312/)(! 7/A/6! )1! '1013/'! 1!

1.4/;/'!'1M318B1;!/71'7/!)1;;/!185;&R%75/!;(75/3>!H12*%)(!q/.15'(!CIJJm:!A>!mL!(!O/%2*1P!

)(;!5%;&5&*S)(;!

'./%(!k5/%%/!/7'1;71%&/!7(.!*.!&18&(!M15&(!/AY;!/!.('&1!)1!

-`57(! H751%71! A/'/! (! ;5&1!O/%2*1&'(%57! <*1P!

>!-(%;5)1'/%)(!1;;/;!7(3(7/+B1;:!=!

A(;;S013!5)1%&5M57/'!(!%/;75.1%&(!)1!*./!1;&=&57/!A/*&/)/!1.!%(0/;!'1M1'R%75/;:!21'/)/!A13(!

.(05.1%&(!7(.!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!<*1!%,(!;1!1%7/58/0/!./5;!7(.!(!<*1!185;&5/!/%&1'5('.1%&1>!

?! ('525%/35)/)1! )(! O/%2*141/&! ;1! )Z! A13/! )501';5)/)1! )1! 131.1%&(;! <*1! /&*/'/.!

N*%&(;!%/!7(%;&'*+,(!)/!71%/>!O(%+('1;!CIJJr:!A>!VKL!)56!<*1!/!71%/!O/%*2*1!/4'52(*!1;&53(!

1!

7/%75(%15'(! A(A*3/'! 1h(*! 1.! ./%5M1;&/+B1;! M(373Y'57/;! C/3M/5/;:! '/417/;! 1! 1&7>L :! <*1! ;1!

N*%&/0/.! !/! !

!\1;;1!.()(:!/!('525%/35)/)1!<*1!3`1!7(%;&5&*5:!/(!.1;.(!&1.A(!21'/!/!)5M57*3)/)1!)1!

)1M5%5'! 1;&535;&57/.1%&1! (! .(05.1%&(! O/%2*1>! G31! &/%&(! %,(! ;1! A()1! 7/'/7&1'56/'! 7(.(!

M(373Y'57(:!A('!/2'12/!%(0(;!0/3('1;!/!1;;/;!./%5M1;&/+B1;!A(A*3/'1;:!<*/%&(!=!)5MS753!(!5;(3/'!

)1%&'(! )1! *.! '5&.(! A'=@185;&1%&1>! U('=.! )5/%&1! )1! &/./%`/! 0/'51)/)1! /5%)/! =! A(;;S013!

Page 32: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

25

7(%M52*'/'!*./!)505;,(!)1!A/)'B1;!A1'/%&1!/!A'()*+,(!)(;!/'&5;&/;! 5%)505)*/3.1%&1:!7(.(!

/01'52*/!O(%+('1;!CIJJr:!A>VKLP!!

!

O1;.(!7(.!&/%&/;!)5M1'1%+/;:!/32*%;!/M5'./.!<*1!=!A(;;S013!)505)5'!@@

M

!!

]/;1/)(!%1;&/! ;12.1%&/+,(:!=!A(;;S013!1%&1%)1'!<*1!(;! '5&.(;!<*1!A/'&575A/'/.!)/!

M*;,(! .*;57/3! )(! O/%2*141/&:! &'(*81'/.! 7(%;52(! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! A'YA'5/;! <*1! /7/4/'/.!

M/61%)(!A/'&1!)/!1;&=&57/!21'/)/!A13(!O/%2*1>!\5/%&1!)/!)501';5)/)1!)1! 5%M('./+B1;!<*1!

;1'05'/.!)1!'1M1'1%75/!/(!.(05.1%&(:!4*;7/.(;!21'/'!*./!05;*/356/+,(!./5;!73/'/!)(!<*1!

;1!7(%;&5&*5*!7(.(!'1M1'R%75/;!1;&=&57/;!)(!.(05.1%&(>!?;;5.:!('2/%56/.(;!/;!5%M('./+B1;!

1.! M('./! )1! &/413/P! 7/)/! 35%`/! 7(%&=.! M(&(2'/M5/;! )1! /'&5;&/;! @! /;! 5%M3*R%75/;! .*;57/5;!

7/&12('56/)/;!A('!O(%+('1;!CIJJrL:!<*1!A()1.!;1!05;*/356/)/;!%/!M52*'/!">!

?! A/'&5'! )/;! 5./21%;! /;;5.! )5;A(;&/;:! 5)1%&5M57/.(;! (;! A(%&(;! ;5.53/'1;! 1%&'1! (!

O/%2*141/&:! (! '/A! 1! (! '1A1%&1P! *.! 131.1%&(! <*1! ;1! '1A1&1! %(;! &'R;! 1;&53(;! =! (! *;(! )(!

7`ZA1*:!%(!O/%2*1!/A/'171!7(.!*.!M('./&(!;5.53/'!/(!*;/)(!A13(!/'&5;&/;!)(!_/A:!A('=.!

M15&(!7(.!A/3`/:!./&1'5/3!*&5356/)(!A13(;!'1A1%&5;&/;!%(')1;&5%(;>!E;!Y7*3(;!2'/%)1;!&/.4=.!

/A/'171.!1.!&()(;!(;!;12.1%&(;!/A'1;1%&/)(;:!/3=.!)/;!7/.5;/;!1.!&/./%`(!41.!./5('!

)(!<*1!(!7('A(>!!

!

Page 33: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

26

!8.()5&!$9!:7&(*'0!5*;*5<'2.&!=&6!>!=*6*'-*#!84'-*9!?5@65.&!A"B$BC#!

!

G.! '13/+,(! /(! 1;&53(! )(! '/AA1';:! %(&/@;1! <*1! (! .(05.1%&(! ./%2*1! /;;*.5*! /!

;5.53/'5)/)1!21;&*/3>!E!*;(!)/;!.,(;!1!/!A(;&*'/!)(!7('A(!C/'<*1/)(L!/A/'171.!)1!M('./!

;1.13`/%&1! &/%&(! %(;! '/AA1';! 7(.(! %(! 181.A3(! )(! O/%2*141/&>! e*/%&(! f;! 7/.5;/;!

1;&/.A/)/;! )1! 7('1;! M('&1;! ;,(! ;5.53/'1;! &/%&(! %(!O/%2*1! <*/%&(! %(! .()(! 1.! <*1! (;!

'1A1%&5;&/;!;1!01;&1.>!

?5%)/! 4/;1/)(;! %/! ;12.1%&/+,(! M15&/! A('!O(%+('1;! CIJJrL:! &('%/.(;! /! M/61'! *./!

7(.A/'/+,(>! ?2('/! 1%&'1! (! x5A@x(A:! (! ./'/7/&*! 1! ;*/;! 5%M3*R%75/! ;(4'1! (! .(05.1%&(!

./%2*1>!?!M52*'/!)(5;!)5;A(%545356/!/;!5./21%;>!!

F1;;1!<*/)'(!CM52>!"L!&/.4=.!;1!/A'1;1%&/!*./!;='51!)1!/;A17&(;!;1.13`/%&1;>!E!*;(!

)/;!.,(;!NZ!A1'7145)(!%/;!5./21%;!/%&1'5('1;!/<*5!&/.4=.!;1!'1A'()*6P!(;!/'&5;&/;!)(!x5A!

Page 34: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

27

x(A!1!)(!O/%2*1!;*'21.!7(.!*.!A(;575(%/.1%&(!;5.53/'>!-(%&*)(:!(!O/'/7/&*!A/'&575A/!

)1;;1!/;A17&(!)1!.()(!)501';(P!/!.,(!&/.4=.!'1A'1;1%&/!*./!7/'/7&1'S;&57/! 5.A('&/%&1!

)/!01;&5.1%&/!A/'/!7/'/7&1'56/'!(!A1';(%/21.:! %(!

./'/7/&*!7/''12/!/!;*/!3/%+/:!5.A('&/%&1!/)1'1+(!)(!&'/N1>!!

!

!8.()5&!"9!:7&(*'0!5*;*5<'2.&!D.6!D46!>!%&5&2&-)#!84'-*9?5@65.&!A"B$BC#!

!!E*&'(!/;A17&(!<*1! ;1! '1A1&1!1.!'13/+,(!f! M52*'/!"! ;,(!(;!Y7*3(;!2'/%)1;>!?3=.!)(;!

Y7*3(;!&/.4=.!;1!A1'7141!/;!01;&5.1%&/!)1!&/./%`(!./5('!<*1!(!7('A(!)(!*;*Z'5(:!&/%&(!

%(!x5A!x(A:!<*/%&(!%(!1;&53(!O/%2*1:! 7(.(!%/! '(*A/!)(!O/'/7/&*!<*1!/A/'171!7(.!*.!

./%&(!<*1!7(4'1! &()(!(!;1*!7('A(>!E!./%&(!*;/)(!A13(!O/'/7/&*!=!7(%;&5&*S)(!A('!*./!

Page 35: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

28

2'/%)1!0/'51)/)1!)1!7('1;:!<*1!&/.4=.!/A/'171.!%/;!'(*A/;!)(!O/%2*141/&>!E!/)1'1+(!

)1!7/41+/!*;/)(!A13(!O/'/7/&*!&/.4=.!/A/'171!%(!M52*'5%(!)1!-`57(!H751%71>!

i./! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/!)(!1;&53(!)1!-`57(!H751%71!=!*;(!)(! 7`/A=*!)1!A/3`/>!E;( ,&--.,'!

&/.4=.!/A/'171.!*;/%)(!7`/A=*;:!A('=.!/!A/3`/!'1.1&1!/!4/;1!)(!/)1'1+(!)1!7/41+/!)(!

./'/7/&*>!?;;5.!7(.(!/!41'.*)/!7(.!M'/%N/;!%/!4/''/:!<*1!=!*;/)(!%/!7/'/7&1'56/+,(!)(!

./'/7/&*! 1! M(5! &/.4=.! 01;&5)(! A('! -`57(! H751%71>! E*&'/! ;1.13`/%+/! ;1! /A'1;1%&/! %(!

;/A/&(P! (! &R%5;! =! /)(&/)(! A13(;! &'R;! ;12.1%&(;>! U('! X3&5.(:! *.! /;A17&(! A1'7145)(! 7(.(!

A(%&(! )1! ;1.13`/%+/! 1%&'1! (;! ,&--.,'( 1! (! ./%2*14(v:! ;,(! (;! 7(3/'1;>! F(! A'5.15'(! ;,(!

M15&(;!)1!.1&/3:!(*'(:!A'/&/:!1%<*/%&(!%(!;12*%)(!131!;,(!M15&(;!)1!;1.1%&1;:!7/''12/%)(!

*.!/;A17&(!'125(%/35;&/>!!

?!M52*'/!&'R;!/2'12/!./5;!&'R;!'1M1'R%75/;!75&/)/;!A13(;!/*&('1;>!F1;;/!&1'715'/!M52*'/!=!

A(;;S013! %(0/.1%&1! 05;*/356/'! /;A17&(;! <*1! ;1! '1A1&1.! %(;! &'R;! 1;&53(;>! i.! )131;! =:!

%(0/.1%&1:! (! *;(! )1! Y7*3(;! )1! 2'/%)1;! M('./&(;:! <*1! %(! 7/;(! )(!O/%2*1! /A/'171! ;1.!

31%&1;!1;7*'/;!A('=.!./%&=.!/!M('./!C*./!/'./+,(!;5.53/'L>!E*&'/!7/'/7&1'S;&57/!<*1!;1!0R!

%(;!&'R;!1;&53(;!;,(!/;!7/.5;/;!)1!4(&,(>!G.!&()(;!(;!1;&53(;!)1.(%;&'/)(;!13/;!/A/'171.!

;1.5@/41'&/;! %/! A/'&1! ;*A1'5('>! G.! )/;! M(&(;! /A'1;1%&/)/;! )(! O/%2*141/&! /! 7/.5;/!

/A/'171!1;&/.A/)/!7(.(!/;!*;/)/;!A13(;!A/'&575A/%&1;!)(;!;12.1%&(;!;/.4/!1!M*%u>!!!!

E*&'/! ;5.53/'5)/)1! 7(.*.!1%&'1!(!O/%2*1:! H/.4/!1! [*%u!=! /!A'1;1%+/!)(! 7`/A=*:!

7(.(! /71;;Y'5(! ./'7/%&1! )(;! &'R;! 1;&53(;>! G.! '13/+,(! /(! O/%2*141/&! 1! (! A*%u! =! *./!

;5.53/'5)/)1!1.!'13/+,(!f!A(;&*'/:!(!.()(!1.!<*1!/A/'171!&(7/%)(!1!(!A(;575(%/.1%&(!%(!

A/37(>!H5.53/'!&/.4=.!=!(!*;(!)/!2'/0/&/!<*1!;1!A()1!A1'7141'!1.!/32*./;!5./21%;!

!

Page 36: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

29

!8.()5&!E9!:7&(*'0!5*;*5<'2.&!?)'F!>!G&7,&!>!8)'F#!84'-*9?5@65.&!A"B$BC#!

!

>\1;;1! .()(:! (! .(05.1%&(! O/%2*141/&! ;*'25*! )1! *./! 71%/! .*;57/3:! 1! /!

/A'1;1%&/+,(!/(!050(!)(;!/'&5;&/;!7(%;&5&*5*!(!.(.1%&(!1.!<*1!;1!A()5/!05;*/356/'!)1!M('./!

/.A3/!(!/A/'/&(!1;&=&57(!21'/)(!A13(!.(05.1%&(:!7(.(!;1!M(5!A(;;S013!A1'7141'!%/;!M52*'/;!

)1!5./21%;!/A'1;1%&/)/;>!H12*%)(!O(%+('1;!CIJJr:!A>VWL!1.!*.!;`(b!)1!-`57(!H751%71!1!

Page 37: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

30

F/+,(!p*.45!O/%2*1:!4/%)/!/3571'71!)/!71%/!O/%2*1!1!2'/%)1!A'(A/2/)('/!)(!.(05.1%&(!

1'/!A(;;S013!;1!01'!<*1P!

!

!-`57(! .(05/@;1! )1! M('./! )1;7(%17&/:! 1.! A/;;(;! <*/;1! A*3/)(;:!M'/2.1%&/)(;:! ('/! 7(.! *./! 31%&5),(! A'105;S013! ('/! 1.! 21;&(;!'ZA5)(;!1!M5'.1;:!;5.*3/%)(!)/%+/;!A(A*3/'1;:!<*1!)(.5%/0/.!&()(!(!1;A/+(!350'1!)(!A/37(>!?;!.,(;!<*/;1!;1.A'1!5.5&/0/.!/!M('./!)/!A/&/! )(! 7/'/%2*1N(! /&'/0=;! )(! )1)(! 5%)57/)('! 1! .=)5(>! H*/!35%2*/21.! 7('A('/3! )*'/%&1! (;! ;`(b;:! M16! 7(.! <*1! ;*'25;;1! *.!

M/%&/;5/;! 7(.(:! A('! 181.A3(:! /! )1! 7/4(73(! )1! 3/%+/>G;;1! 1;&53(!

7/%&('1;:! 7(.(! ['1)! Jj:! <*1! &'(7(*! ;*/! A1'M('./%71! 5%&'(;A17&50/!A('!/A/'5+B1;!./5;!5%&1'/&50/;!7(.!(!AX4357(>!

!!

E! A/37(! ;*'21! 7(.(! 1;A/+(! )1! )50*32/+,(! )1;;/! 1;&=&57/:! A(;;54535&/%)(! /!

)5;;1.5%/+,(!)(;! 5)1/5;!)(!O/%2*141/&>!F1;;1!.(.1%&(!131!;1!18A/%)1!1!21'/!/!'13/+,(!

7(.!./5;!A1;;(/;:!<*1!A('!0161;:!%1.!A'175;/.!&1'!'13/+B1;!)5'1&/;!7(.!(;!/'&5;&/;!1.!;5!

.1;.(:! 4/;&/%)(! /A1%/;! <*1! )1;1N/;;1.! M/61'! A/'&1! )1! /32*./! M('./! )(!.(05.1%&(:! 1!

A/'/!5;;(!7(.A/'&53`/%)(!;*/;!'1M1'R%75/;!C(;!131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;L!'1A'1;1%&/&50/;>!?3=.!)1!

7(.A/'&53`/'! )(! 05;*/3:! )/! 5)1(3(25/! 1! )/! 21;&*/35)/)1:! (*&'/;! M('./;! )1! '1A'1;1%&/+,(!

&/.4=.! M('/.! ;52%5M57/&50/;P! (! (;! 21;&(;:! `Z! &/.4=.! (! ;*'25.1%&(! )1! *./!

35%2*/21.! 1.! <*1! (;! &1'.(;! *;/)(;! M('/.! '1&5'/)(;! )(! *%501';(! )(;!./%2*16/5;>! G;;/;!

2S'5/;! 1;A/3`/'/.@

COEFwE_GH:!IJJr:!A>VmL>!

!E;! A'()*&(;! 1%&,(! 21'/)(;! A13/;! '13/+B1;! 1%&'1! 1;;/;! '13/+B1;! <*1! 21'/'/.! *./!

1;&=&57/! 1'/.! A'()*&(;! )1! M('&1! '13/+,(! 7(.! (;! 5%)50S)*(;! <*1! ;1! 5)1%&5M57/0/.! 7(.! (;!

131.1%&(;!)(!O/%2*141/&:!A(5;!'1&'/&/0/.!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!;5%2*3/'1;!)1!*.!.(05.1%&(!<*1!

;1! *&5356/! )(;! /;A17&(;! 7*3&*'/5;! )1! *.! A(0(:! 1! <*1! =! &/.4=.!*.! '1M318(! )(! /;A17&(! )/!

.5;&*'/!1%&'1!(!3(7/3!1!(!23(4/3>!E;!0/3('1;!<*1!;1!A1'7145/.!%1;;1;!A'()*&(;!&'/%;71%)5/.!

Page 38: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

31

/!/A/'R%75/:!/37/%+/0/.!/!(!7/.A(!;5.4Y357(:!*./!7(.*%`,(!1%&'1!(!5./25%Z'5(!A(A*3/'!1!

(;! 7(%715&(;! )1! .()1'%5)/)1:! ./%&5%`/.! 7(.(! '1M1'R%75/! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! 7*3&*'/5;! 1!

A(3S&57/;>!COEFwE_GH:!IJJrL>!

i.!A'()*&(!<*1!'1;*3&(*!)/!1;&=&57/!O/%2*1!M(5!/!O/%2*14/&;:!*./!!*$/)&+'0!1;&53(!

)1! M(%&1! &5A(2'ZM57/! 1.! M('./!)1! )1;1%`(:! <*1! '1A'1;1%&/0/! 131.1%&(;! )(!O/%2*141/&>!

G;;1! A'()*&(! M16! A/'&1! )/! 7(.1.('/+,(! )1! "J! /%(;! )(!O/%2*141/&! 1! M(5! 3/%+/)(! A13(!

HG]_?GhUG!1.!IJJj!1!'1M1'1%75/!73/'/.1%&1!/!71%/!O/%2*1:!&1%)(!1.!05;&/!A'5.15'/.1%&1!

<*1!*.!)(;!%(.1;!)(!.(05.1%&(!1'/!O/%2*145&:!(%)1!(!45&:!;52%5M57/!(!.1%('!1;A/+(!)1!

/'./61%/.1%&(! )1! )/)(;! %/! 35%2*/21.! )1! 7(.A*&/)('1;:! .1;.(! /.451%&1! (! <*/3! /!

O/%2*14/&;!;1!;5&*/>!?3=.!)5;;(:!

TL>!

?;! 5./21%;!)/!O/%2*14/&;! M('/.!)1;1%0(305)(;! 1.!

M15&(!/!A/'&5'!)/!/%Z35;1!)1!)5;7(;:!7/'&/61;:! M3v1';:! M(3)1';:!./&='5/;!)1! N('%/5;!1! '105;&/;!1!

!CIJJr:!A>!VTL>!

\1;;/!M('./!/A/'171!7(.(!131.1%&(!)1!4/;&/%&1!'1310Q%75/!A/'/!(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)1;;1!

A'(N1&(!NZ!<*1!(;!'1;*3&/)(;!/A'1;1%&/.:!)1!M('./!;5%&=&57/:!(;!131.1%&(;!'1A'1;1%&/&50(;!

)(!<*1!M(5!0501%75/)(!%(!O/%2*1>!!

\1! /7(')(! 7(.! (! 310/%&/.1%&(:! (! O/%2*14/&;! =! )505)5)(! 1.! <*/&'(! M/.S35/;!

&5A(2'ZM57/;:!&()/;!'1A'1;1%&/)(!(!.1;.(!2'*A(!)1!5./21%;:!A('=.!7(.!&'/+(;!)5M1'1%&1;!

<*1!;1!'13/75(%/.!7/)/!*./!7(.!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!)5M1'1%&1;!)(!.(05.1%&(!O/%2*1>!?!A/'&5'!

)/;! 5%M('./+B1;! /A'1;1%&/)/;! A('! O(%+('1;! CIJJrL! =! A(;;S013! A1'7141'! /;! ;12*5%&1;!

7/'/7&1'S;&57/;P!

!

Page 39: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

32

">?![/.S35/!O/%2*14/&;!"!'1A'1;1%&/!(!`*.(':!A'1;1%&1!%(!.(05.1%&(!/&'/0=;!)(!

*;(!)/!35%2*/21.!)1!`5;&Y'5/!1.!<*/)'5%`(;n!!

I> !F/!O/%2*14/&! I! /! 5)=5/! =! '1A'1;1%&/'! *./! 5./21.! 23(4/3:! 7(.! /*;R%75/! )1!

5)1%&5)/)1! 1! %1*&'/:! *;/@;1! 1%&,(:! &'/+(;! 35.A(;! (%)1! (;! ;S.4(3(;! ;,(!

/A'1;1%&/)(;!)1!.()(!;5%&=&57(n!!

V> ?! O/%2*14/&! V! ;1! /A'(85./! )(! *%501';(! *'4/%(! 1! &17%(3Y257(:! A13(! *;(! )1!

7(%&('%(;!/%2*3(;(;!<*1! @ !

j> @! F/! M/.S35/! O/%2*14/&j! /;! 5./21%;! /A/'171.! ./5;! '1/5;! /&'/0=;! )1! 35%`/;!

18A'1;;50/;! 1! (! *;(! )1! 3*6! 1! ;(.4'/! A/'/! /! 7(%;&'*+,(! )(;! ;S.4(3(;:! 7'5/%)(!

;1.13`/%+/!7(.!/;!M(&(7YA5/;!<*1!/A/'175/.!1.!M/%65%1;!)(!.(05.1%&(!12$3>!

!

F/!M52*'/!/!;12*5'!CM52>jL:!1;&Z!/!/A'1;1%&/+,(!)1!&()(;!(;!;S.4(3(;!1!&()/;!/;!M/.S35/;!

)(!O/%2*14/&;>!

!

!8.()5&!H9!84'-*!-.64(5I;.2&!%&'()*,&-0#!84'-*9!J--69KKLLL#;M.2F5#247K6J4-40K,5)'4645-43*0.('KA"B$BC!

Page 40: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

33

]/;1/)(!1.!O(%+('1;!CIJJmL:!A/'/!/!.13`('!05;*/356/+,(!)(!S7(%1;!'1A'1;1%&/)(;!%/!

O/%2*14/&;:! M(5! )1;1%0(305)/! A13(! A1;<*5;/)('! *./! &/413/! CM52>! K! 1! rL! <*1! '13/75(%/! (;!

;S.4(3(;!/A'1;1%&/)(;!%/!&5A(2'/M5/!/(!;1*!7(%&18&(!)1%&'(!)(!O/%2*141/&>!!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

8.()5&!N9!O&,*M&!*M*7*'-40!%&'()*,&-0!:#!!84'-*9!?5@65.&!!A"B$BCP!,&0*&34!*7!%4'Q45*0A"BBRC#!

Page 41: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

34

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

8.()5&!R9!SM*7*'-40!%&'()*,&-0!::#!84'-*9!?5@65.&!!A"B$BCP!,&0*&34!*7!%4'Q45*0A"BBRC#!

Page 42: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

35

?!O/%2*14/&;!.(;&'/! /&'/0=;! )1! ;1*;! S7(%1;:! 131.1%&(;! '1A'1;1%&/&50(;! )1! &()/! /!

.(05.1%&/+,(! /7(%&175)/! %/! 71%/! O/%2*1>! \1;;/! M('./:! ;*/! 05;*/356/+,(! /A'1;1%&/!

)501';/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!<*1!A()1.!;1'05'!7(.(!)1M5%5+,(!1;&53S;&57/!)(!O/%2*141/&:!)1%&'1!

13/;!'1M1'R%75/;!<*1!/5%)/!%,(!M('/.!7(.1%&/)/;>!?!A'1;1%+/!)1!5./21%;!7(.(!/!)/!71'01N/!

1! /! <*1! '1A'1;1%&/! (;! 4/'1;! )(! _175M1:! .(;&'/.! *./! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/! 4(R.5/! A'1;1%&1! %(!

.(05.1%&(>!O(%+('1;CIJJr:! A>I"L! &/.4=.! /A(%&/! 1;;1! /;A17&(! <*/%)(! M/3/! <*1! M(5! 1.!

*./! .1;/! )1! 4/'! <*1! -`57(! H751%71! /A'1;1%&(*! A/'/! (;! /.52(;! /! 5)=5/! )1! .5;&*'/'! (!

./'/7/&*! 7(.! (*&'(;! '5&.(;! .*;57/5;:! /;A17&(! <*1! :7(.(! NZ! )5&(! /%&1'5('.1%&1:! ;*'25*!

7(.(!4/;1!1;&53S;&57/!)(!O/%2*141/&>!

E*&'(!/;A17&(!5.A('&/%&1!)/!'1A'1;1%&/+,(!1;&=&57/!)(!O/%2*1!=!/!O()/>!U/3(.5%(!

CIJJJ:! A>"rL! 7/'/7&1'56/! .()/! 7(.(P! C>>>L! *.! ;5;&1./! <*1! /7(.A/%`/! (! 01;&*Z'5(! 1! (!

&1.A(:! <*1! 5%&12'/! (! ;5.A31;! *;(! )/;! '(*A/;! %(! )5/@/@)5/! /! *.! 7(%&18&(! ./5(':! ;(75/3:!

A(3S&57(:!

%1;;1! &18&(:! M57/! 73/'(!<*1! &()/!/!2/./!)1! ;S.4(3(;!1! '1A'1;1%&/+B1;! ;(75/5;!21'/)/;!A13(!

O/%2*1!&501'/.!'1M318(!%/!.()/>!

E!A'()*&(!7*3&*'/3!21'/)(!A13(!O/%2*141/&!M(5!)1!&(&/3!;5%2*3/'5)/)1:!7(.(!'1;*3&/)(!

)1;;1! /;A17&(:! M(5! 7(%7145)(! *.! 1;&=&57/! A17*35/':! %*%7/! /%&1;! 05;&/>! G;;/! 4*;7/! <*1! (;!

/'&5;&/;!&5%`/!A13/!/*&1%&575)/)1:!21'/!*./!.()/!<*1!%,(!;1!A()5/!1%7(%&'/'!%/;!3(N/;:!/;;5.!

(;!./%2*14(v;:! %(.1!)/)(! /(;! A/'&575A/%&1;!./;7*35%(;! )/! 71%/:! 7(.1+/'/.! /! A'()*65'!

;*/;!A'YA'5/;!'(*A/;!A/'/!/;!/A'1;1%&/+B1;!1.!;1*;!;`(b;>COEFwE_GH:!IJJr:!A>mVL>!!

E;!M52*'5%(;!)(;!;`(b;!1'/.!M15&(;!7(.!(!*;(!)1!A'()*&(;!1%7(%&'/)(;!%(;!.1'7/)(;!

AX4357(;!)/!75)/)1!)(!_175M1!;1!'13/75(%/%)(!)5'1&/.1%&1!7(.!/!7*3&*'/! 3(7/3P! /!%(!

O1'7/)(! )1! H,(! D(;=:! 7(.A'/0/! *.! &'(+(! A/'175)(! 7(.! /<*131! <*1! 131! &5%`/! 05;&(! %(!

! 1%&'105;&/! /!O(%+('1;CIJJrL>! E! '1;*3&/)(! 05;*/3!

Page 43: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

36

'1;;/3&/0/! (! '125(%/35;.(:! A('=.! /05;&/0/! &/.4=.! /;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! )1!.()1'%5)/)1! <*1!

&/.4=.!1'/.!/;A17&(;!7/'/7&1'S;&57(;!)/!71%/>!!

H12*%)(!H/%&(;! CIJJV:A>VTL: (!A/37(:!1.!71%/!.*;57/3:!(;!/'&5;&/;!*;/0/.!7`/A=*;!

)1!A/3`/:!2'/%)1;!Y7*3(;!1;7*'(;!)/!.()/!/&*/3:!&R%5;!)/!7*3&*'/!A(A!(*!7/3+/)(!)1!7(*'(:!

>!H/%&(;!/A(%&/!<*1!(;!/'&5;&/;!'1;2/&/'/.!

/! 35%2*/21.! 1;&=&57/! )(! 7(%&18&(! 7*3&*'/3! 1! .58/'/.! 7(.! /;! 4/&5)/;! &17%(3Y257/;! )/;!

.X;57/;! )1! A(A! '(7u! )/! 4/%)/! -`57(! H751%71! o! F/+,(! p*.45>! ?;;5.! 1;&501'/.! A'1;1%&1;!

01;&5.1%&/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57(;!)1!./%5M1;&/+B1;!M(373Y'57/;!7(.!'1M1'R%75/;!;5%&(%56/)/;!7(.!/!

.()1'%5)/)1!*'4/%/:!;1%)(!7/A/6!)1!5%M3*1%75/'!(;!N(01%;!;5.A/&56/%&1;!)(!.(05.1%&(>!!

?! 01;&5.1%&/! ;1! &('%/:! 1%&,(:! ./5;! *.! .15(! )1! '1/M5'./+,(! )(! )5;7*';(! )/! 71%/!

O/%2*1!1!;1'01!7(.(!1;&/%)/'&1!)1!5)1%&5M57/+,(!1%&'1!/;!A1;;(/;!<*1!7(.*%2/0/.!)1;;1!

)5;7*';(>! O(%+('1;! ! 5%7('A('/)(! /! *.!

2'*A(! (*! 7*3&*'/! <*/%)(! /;;*.1! /! *%5M('.5)/)1! )(;! 21;&(;:! )1! MY'.*3/;! 1! )1! &'/+(;!

!

E!/;A17&(!)/!.()/! ;1'01!7(.(!*.!A(%&(!)1! 5%&1'/+,(!1%&'1!/;!)501';/;! 5%M3*R%75/;!

'17(''1%&1;! %(! O/%2*141/&! *%5M('.56/! *.! 1;&53(! 7(.*.! /(;! (;! A/'&575A/%&1;! )/! 71%/>!

O(%+('1;!C

A13/!)501';5)/)1!1;&53S;&57/!.*;57/3:! A'175;/%)(:!1%&,(:!)1! /+B1;!)1! 7(.*%`,(!(%)1! &()(;!

A/'& !

-(.! (! 7'1;75.1%&(! 1! )50*32/+,(! )(! O/%2*141/&:! /! .()/! 21'/)/! A13(! .(05.1%&(!

/&5%21! (*&'(! %S013>! E! /*.1%&(! )(! AX4357(! <*1! ;1! 5)1%&5M57/! 7(.! (! .(05.1%&(! 7'5/! /!

%171;;5)/)1! )1! ./5;! A1;;(/;! ;1! /M5'./'1.! ;(75/3.1%&1! /&'/0=;! )/! 01;&5.1%&/>!

O(%+('1;CIJJr:A>mWL!05;*/356/!)/!;12*5%&1!M('./P!!

Page 44: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

37

-(.!(!AX4357(!O/%2*1!7/)/!016!./5(':!;*'21.!7(%;*.5)('1;!<*1!)1;1N/.!;1! 5)1%&5M57/'! 7(.! (;! S)(3(;:! 05;&(! <*1! ;A/;;(*! /! ;1'! ;5%9%5.(! )1! .()1'%(:! 7(%&1;&/)(':! N(01.! 1:! A'5%75A/3.1%&1!

7(%&1.A('Q%1/;L>!!

C&-2!(a1%`/'&:!IJJT:!A>W

(!`(.1.!/!;1!01;&5'!=!/!A'1(7*A/+,(!)1!;1!5%01;&5'!)1!&*)(!<*1!(!/N*)/'Z!/!;1!M5'./'!1!/!;1'!

>! \1;;/! M('./:! ^'1A&(b! CIJJV:! A>! IrL! 7(.A31.1%&/! 1! A(%&*/P!

&'(;:! A(5;!.()/! ;1! )Z!

!

?;;5.!/!%171;;5)/)1!)1;;/! 5)1%&5M57/+,(!<*1! ;1! '1/356/!1.!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/!2/%`/!

*.!1;A/+(!1!)50*32/+,(!1!7(.1'75/356/+,(:!(P!O1'7/)(!U(A>!H/%&(;!

A'()*+B1;! 3(7/5;! 5%/*2*'/'/.! *.! 3*2/'! '1;&'5&(! )1! 7(%;*.(:! )1;71%&'/)(! )(;! AY3(;!

7(.1'75/5;! )/! 75)/)1! 7(.! /! 7'5/+,(! )1! *.! 1;A/+(! /3& !

^'/&/'! )1;;1! 1;A/+(! &1.! 5.A('&Q%75/! A('! ;1'! *.! 3(7/3! (%)1! 1'/! A(;;S013! 05;*/356/'! /!

A'()*+,(!)1!/32*%;!A'(M5;;5(%/5;!352/)(;!/!.()/:!A1'7141%)(!/;;5.!/;A17&(;!1;&53S;&57(;!)/!

01;&5.1%&/! ;*'25)/! /&'/0=;! )(! .(05.1%&(! O/%2*1:! ;1%)(! )5;;1.5%/)/;! 1%<*/%&(!

&1%)R%75/;! )1! *;(>! H/%&(;! CIJJV:! A>! jJL! 75&/! /32*%;! )1;;1;! /'&5;&/;! 1! (;! 7/'/7&1'56/!

;5%&1&57/.1%&1P!!

!

G%0(301'/.@;1! 1;&'15&/.1%&1! 7(.! 1;;1! %(0(! A/'/)52./! 1;&535;&/;! 7(.(!D/53;(%! O/'7(;:! 7(.! ;1*;! 7/3+/)(;! A3/&/M('./;n! ]1&(! F('./3:! 7(.! ;*/;!'(*A/;!;&'11&!b1/'!<*1!&'/61.!/!4/%)15'/!)1!U1'%/.4*7(!1:!1.!`/'.(%5/!7(.!(;!;S.4(3(;!)/!%/+,(:!/!M(3`/!)/!-/%%/45;!H/&50/n!1!G)*/')(![1''15'/:!7(.!;1*!1;&53(!173=&57(!*%5%)(!/!A'()*+,(!/'&1;/%/3!1!A(A*3/'!f!35%2*/21.!)/!5%)X;&'5/!)1!.()/!*%501';/3>!!!

E;! A'()*&(;! )1!.()/! 7/''12/0/.! /;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! 1! /! ;5.4(3(25/! )/! 71%/!.*;57/3!

O/%2*141/&:! 1.4('/! '1013/;;1.! 73/'/.1%&1! /! '13/+,(! )1! )*/35)/)1! '125(%/3h23(4/3P!

Page 45: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

38

&1%)R%75/;! 23(4/5;! 1;&/0/.! )5;A(;&/! 1.! .15(! /!

OEFwE_GH:!IJJrL>!!

]/;1/)(!1.!O(%+('1;! CIJJrL! M(5! )1;1%0(305)/!/! &/413/! CM52>W! 1! mL:! %/!<*/3! ;1!4*;7/!

/3=.!)1!M*25'!)/!'1A1&5+,(!)1!75&/+B1;!)/!.1;./!/*&('/:!M/61'!7(.!<*1!/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!)/!

.()/!O/%2*1:! ;1N/.!05;&/;!A('!7(.A31&(!1!)1!M('./!73/'/>!F1;&/! M/61.(;!*./!)1;7'5+,(!

)(;! A'5%75A/5;! 131.1%&(;! <*1! 7(.A*;1'/.! /!.()/!./%2*1! N*%&/.1%&1! 7(.! ! /;! 5./21%;!

<*1!/;!'1A'1;1%&/.>!

?;;5.:!/A1;/'!)/!M('&1!352/+,(!)/!.()/!7(.!(!.(05.1%&(:!=!5.A('&/%&1!;/351%&/'!<*1!

/!71%/!O/%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/!/A/'171!7(.(!*.!.(.1%&(!/'&S;&57(!3(7/356/)(!%(!&1.A(@

1;A/+(! A(;&1'5('! /(!O/%2*141/&:! /A1;/'! )1!./%&1'! *./! 1;&'15&/! 7(.*%57/+,(! 7(.!1;&1>!

O1;.(! /A(%&/%)(! A/'/! %(0(;! 7/.5%`(;:! (! .(05.1%&(! /5%)/! %,(! /A'1;1%&/! *.! A1'M53!

)1&1'.5%/)(>!H12*%)(!a1,(! CIJJWL!/!7(%)5+,(!)(!.(05.1%&(!%/!/&*/35)/)1!1;&Z! 3(%21!)1!

'1A'1;1%&/'!7(.(!*./!'*A&*'/!7(.!(!.(05.1%&(!(7(''5)(!%(;!/%(;!TJ:!;1!7/'/7&1'56/%)(!

./5;! 7(.(! *.! '1/35%`/.1%&(:! '1/)1<*/+,(:(*! *.! '1(')1%/.1%&(>! H12*%)(! /! /*&('/:!

&1%)(!1.!05;&/!<*1!(!.1;.(!./%&=.!/;A17&(;!A'()*&50(;!'17(''1%&1;!)(!O/%2*141/&:!&/5;!

7(.(!/!M53(;(M5/!)(!M/+/@0([email protected];.(:!/!)501';5)/)1!)1!1;&53(;!1!.5;&*'/!)1!'5&.(;:!131!%,(!

'1A'1;1%&/!*./!<*14'/>!-(%&*)(:!/!/*&('/!7`/./!/!/&1%+,(!A/'/!(!M/&(!)(!.(05.1%&(!%,(!

/A'1;1%&/'!/!M('&1!7/'/7&1'S;&57/!)1!'15%05)57/+B1;!5)1(3Y257/;!A1'&5%1%&1;!/(!O/%2*141/&!>!

!

Page 46: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

39

!8.()5&!T9!!%43&!%&'()*!:#!!84'-*9!?5@65.&!!A"B$BC! !,&0*&34!*7!!%4'Q45*0!A"BBRC!

!

Page 47: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

40

!8.()5&!U9!%43&!%&'()*!::#!#!!84'-*9!?5@65.&!!A"B$BC! !,&0*&34!*7!!%4'Q45*0!A"BBRC!

Page 48: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

41

"#$#E!/!V*'&!%&'()*!V4'-*7645W'*&!*!&0!,&'3&0!'4!=*2.;*!

E!O/%2*141/&!M(5!*.!.(05.1%&(!7*3&*'/3!)1!2'/%)1!5.A('&Q%75/:!<*1!A'(.(01*!*./!

&'(7/!'13/75(%/3!1%&'1!/!7*3&*'/!3(7/3!1!23(4/3:!7(%M52*'/%)(!*./!%(0/!A(;&*'/!%/!7(%;&'*+,(!

/'&S;&57/:!/3=.!)1!/3&1'/'!(!A(;575(%/.1%&(!)(!5%)50S)*(>! ?&'/0=;!)(!O/%2*1!]1/&!/!.X;57/!

C^GHHG_:!IJJW:!A>WJL>!\(!M5.!)(!O/%2*141/&:!./'7/)/!A13/!.('&1!)1!-`57(!H751%71:!/&=!`(N1!

/!71%/!/'&S;&57/!)/!75)/)1!)(!_175M1!/5%)/!%,(!/4'52(*!(*&'(!.(05.1%&(!7*3&*'/3!<*1!21'/;;1!

*./!'*A&*'/!&/3@<*/3!(!M(5!1;;/>!!

G;&/!;1+,(!;1'Z!4/;1/)/!%/!A1;<*5;/!)1!a1,(!CIJJWL:!'1;A(%;Z013!A('!5)1%&5M57/'!<*1!(!

.(05.1%&(!7(%&1.A('Q%1(!'1A'1;1%&/:!/&=!71'&(!A(%&(:!*.!)1;)(4'/.1%&(!)(!O(05.1%&(!

O/%2*141/&:!*./!016!<*1!4/;15/@;1!1.! '1315&*'/;!)(!./%2*1:! /&*/356/)/;>!?A1;/'!)1! ;1'!

*.! )1;)(4'/.1%&(! )(! O/%2*1! (7(''5)(! %(;! /%(;! TJ:! (! .(05.1%&(! /&*/3! /A'1;1%&/!

/;A17&(;!(*&'(;!<*1!(!)5;&/%75/.!)(!/%&1'5('P!/!71%/!O/%2*1!;1!)5;&/%75(*!)/!7*3&*'/!3(7/3!

U/'/! a1,(! /! 5%;A5'/+,(! %(;! 131.1%&(;! )(!

./%2*1!1!)/!3/./!71)1!1;A/+(!A/'/!*./!.*&53/+,(!)(;!'5&.(;!'125(%/5;!1.!<*1!A'1)(.5%/!

(! 7*3&(! /(;! 1;&53(;! ./;;5M57/)(;:! `(.(21%156/)(;:! '17(%`175)(;:! 3125&5./)(;! 1! 2'/0/)(;!

A13/;!2'/%)1;!2'/0/)('/;>!

-(.(!%(!O/%2*141/&:!/!71%/!/&*/3!;1!'1M1'1!M('&1.1%&1! f!75)/)1!1!1%7(%&'/!%13/!(!

A(%&(! )1! A/'&5)/! A/'/! /! 7'5/+,(! /'&S;&57/>! -(%&*)(:! %/! /&*/35)/)1! 1;&1! '1A'1;1%&/! *.!

.(05.1%&(! 21%*5%/.1%&1! *'4/%(! 1! 7(;.(A(35&/>! ?! A'()*+,(! )1! `(N1! ;1! 0(3&/! A/'/! (!

7(&5)5/%(! /&*/3! )(!_175M1:! /2'12/%)(!%(0/;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/!.(05.1%&(! <*1! '1A'1;1%&/.!(;!

A'(431./;!)1!*./!75)/)1!41.!)5M1'1%&1!)/!)(;!/%(;!TJ!CaGcE:!IJJWL!E!./'/;.(!7*3&*'/3!

<*1!)1;1%7/)1(*!(!O/%2*141/&!%/!)=7/)/!)1!TJ:!`(N1! NZ!%,(!A()1!./5;!;1'!7(%;5)1'/)(!

Page 49: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

42

7(.(!7/'/7&1'S;&57/!)(!_175M1>!?! 75)/)1!/&*/3.1%&1!/4'52/!*./!)501';5)/)1!./%5M1;&/+B1;!

(%)1!7(185;&1.!0Z'5/;!&'54(;:!M('./;!)1!;1':!1;&/'!1:!;(4'1&*)(:!)1!A/'171'>!!

?!)501';5)/)1!)5M57*3&/!/!M('./+,(!)1!*.!A1'M53!A/)',(!)1;;1!.(.1%&(!/&*/3!%(!_175M1:!

NZ! <*1! /;;1.13`/! 1;&/! f;! (*&'/;! 2'/%)1;! 75)/)1;! )(! .*%)(:! ;1! 7(.*%57/%)(! 7(.! *.!

7(%&18&(!./5(':!.1%(;!'125(%/3!1!./5;!23(4/3>!H12*%)(!a1,(CIJJWL!`(N1!185;&1!*.!71%Z'5(!

.*;57/3!.5;7521%/)(:! ;5.53/'! /(! (*&'/;! 2'/%)1;!.1&'YA(31;:! 71%&'(;! *'4/%(;! ;5&*/)/;! 1.!

A/S;1;!71%&'/5;!1!23(4/356/)(;>!

\1;;1!.()(:!/!7(%18,(!./5;!)5'1&/!7(.!/!23(4/356/+,(:!;1!'1M31&1!%*./!71%/!7*3&*'/3!

./5;! /%&1%/)/ ! 7(.! (! .*%)(! 1! /;;5.:! 21'/! /! 7(185;&R%75/! )1! )501';/;! 1! .X3&5A3/;!

&1%)R%75/;!;(%('/;!1!7*3&*'/5;>!U/'/!/!05;*/356/+,(!73/'/!)1;;/;!'1M1'R%75/;!%/!71%/!/&*/3:!=!

A'175;(! A1'7141'! <*/5;! )1;;/;! 5%M3*R%75/;! 7'5/&50/;! 5%&1'/21.! ./5;! M('&1.1%&1! %/!

.(05.1%&/+,(!7*3&*'/3!)/! 75)/)1>! H12*%)(!a1,(! CIJJW:!A>jKL:! 7(%0501!%(!71%Z'5(P!(! *$!*.P!

;12*1.!*.! @.()1'%(;P!

7(%&'/@./;;5M57/+,(:!1.!A'(3!)(!;5%2*3/':!)(!7'5/&50(:!('/!&,(!;(.1%&1!)1!'1;5;&R%75/!('/!)1!

(,&4.' !(!`5A!`(A:!(!'/An!1!(!M*%un!

(!A/2()1P! n!1!M5%/3.1%&1!(!4'12/P! ;5)1'Z013!

I!A13/!7'S&57/!.*;57/3>!

\1%&'(! )(;! 1;&53(;! .*;57/5;! A1'7145)(;! 7(.(! 5%&12'/%&1;! )/! /&*/3! 71%/! '175M1%;1:!

A1'7141@;1!131.1%&(;!<*1! &/.4=.!M561'/.!A/'&1!)/! M('./+,(!)(!O/%2*141/&:!A('=.!(;!

'5&.(;! &'/)575(%/5;! )1! U1'%/.4*7(:! 131.1%&(! 5.A('&/%&1! )(!.(05.1%&(:! ;1! /*;1%&/.>! ?!

I!E!3*+'56(=!*.!M1%9.1%(!7*3&*'/3!05%7*3/)(:!)5'1&/.1%&1:!/(!;*'25.1%&(!)/!$%)X;&'5/!-*3&*'/3P!;,(!/'&1M/&(;!7*3&*'/5;!M/4'57/)(;!1.!1;7/3/!5%)*;&'5/3:!352/)(;:!A('!5;;(:!f!;(751)/)1!)1!7(%;*.(>!-(;&*./@;1!7/'/7&1'56Z@3(!A13/!'1)*%)Q%75/!7(.A(;575(%/3:!A(5;!05;/!1M15&(;!1!;52%5M57/+B1;!A'175;(;!1!A'105;S015;n!'1)*%)Q%75/!1;&/!

:!A>IIL>!

Page 50: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

43

M/3&/!)1;;1 !A/'/!*.!)5;&/%75/.1%&(!)(!O/%2*1!(7(''5)(!%(;!

/%(;! TJ:! &'/61%)(! %(0/;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;>! \1;;1!.()(:! <*/%)(! '13/75(%/.(;! (;! 131.1%&(;!

M('./)('1;!)(!.(05.1%&(!/%&1'5('!1!)/!71%/!/&*/3:!/;!7(%18B1;!;,(!)5'1&/;:!/;!'1M1'R%75/;!

;1!7(.*%57/.:!1871&(!A13(!'5&.(;P!(!*$!*.!1!(!4'12/>!G;;1;:!;12*%)(!a1,(!CIJJWL!A()1.!;1'!

7(%;5)1'/)(;!(;!%(0(;!/;A17&(;!<*1!;1!/2'12/'/.!/(!.(05.1%&(!./%2*1!%/!/&*/35)/)1>!

-/&/'5%/!\11!D/`:!D'>!]3/7u!1!-`/.4/'53:!;,(!/'&5;&/;!3(7/5;!;13175(%/)(;!A/'/!/!.13`('!

05;*/356/+,(! )(;! /;A17&(;! 1;A17SM57(;! )(! ./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1(:! A('! /A'1;1%&/'1.! *.!

&'/4/3`(! /*&('/3! 1! /&*/3:! 1! 7/''12/'1.! /;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! <*1! M('/.! A1'7145)/;! A('!

a1,(CIJJWL>! -(%&*)(:! 131;! /;;*.1.!(! )5M1'1%75/3! )1! '1@7(%M52*'/'1.!1;;/;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!

)1!.()(!<*1!/!7(%;&'*5'!*./!5)1%&5)/)1!5%)505)*/3>!!

G;&1&57/.1%&1!)(5;!7(%715&(;!;1!)1;&/7/.:!/!18A1'5.1%&/+,(!5%)1A1%)1%&1!1!(!3*'+567!

i.! )(;! )5M1'1%75/5;! )/! 71%/! ./%2*1! /&*/3! =! /! A'(A(;&/! *$!*.:! <*1! ;12*%)(! ?%/! q/'75/!

CIJJWL! ;52%5M57/! ;1':

.'+&)%*'68.$+!

18A1'5.1%&/+,(>! E! 3*'+56! =! *.! &5A(! )1! 1;&=&57/! 7/'/7&1'56/)(! 7(.(! ;*A1'M575/3:! 0*32/':!

;1%&5.1%&/3! 1!)1!./*!2(;&(:! 7(.!*;(!)1! 7('1;!050/;! 1! M('./;! 7(.A318/;:! ;5%&1&56/)(!A('!

x(*/5;;!

5.5&/+,(!)1!./*!2(;&(!A/'/!)1;M'*&1!)1!*.!AX4357(!<*1!/35.1%&/!/!5%)X;&'5/!)/!7*3&*'/!)1!

7(% @;52%5M57/+,(! /(! 7(%715&(! )1!

3/./:! /A'1;1%&/)(! %(! O/%2*141/&:! 7(.(! /32(! ./'25%/3! 1! A1'5M='57(>! ?;;5.:! =! A(;;S013!

A1'7141'! <*1! (! ./%2*1! /&*/3:! ;1! 05%7*3/! 7(.! *./! 1;&=&57/! <*1! &1%&/! M*25'! )(;! A/)'B1;!

'17(''1%&1;! 1! A'=@)1&1'.5%/)(;:! 4*;7/%)(! 7(%;&'*5'! *./! 5)1%&5)/)1! .1%(;! 7(.1'75/3! 1!

./5;!/*&('/3>!!

!

Page 51: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

44

V #!U'(71)5.1%&(!.1&()(3Y257(!!

G;&1!7/AS&*3(!&1.!7(.(!(4N1&50(!/A'1;1%&/'!(!A'(71;;(!.1&()(3Y257(!*&5356/)(!)*'/%&1!

(! A'1;1%&1! 1;&*)(>! E! )1;1%0(305.1%&(! )1;&1! A'(71)5.1%&(! )1*@;1! 1.! )*/;! M/;1;P! /!

A1;<*5;/! )(! &1./! C<*1! '1013(*! (;! 131.1%&(;! 1;&=&57(;! A/'/! 5%;A5'/+,(! )/! 7'5/+,(L! 1! /!

A'(N1&*/3! C7'5/+,(!)(!A'()*&(!)1!.()/L>! ! ?;;5.:!(!A'(71;;(! 5%575/! 7(.!/! /A'1;1%&/+,(!)(!

.=&()(!)1!A1;<*5;/:!A(;&1'5('.1%&1!&'/&/!)/!7(31&/!)1!)/)(;!%171;;Z'5/!A/'/! '1/356Z@3/:!1!

A('!M5.!)5;7(''1!/!71'7/!)(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!A'(N1&*/3>!!

!

V>"#!O=&()(!)1!U1;<*5;/!

!

E!.=&()(!751%&SM57(!=!*.!;5;&1./!)1!/&505)/)1;!(*!*.!7(%N*%&(!)1!/+B1;!<*1!4*;7/.!

)1!.()(! ;12*'(!1! ;5%&=&57(! /*8535/'!(!A1;<*5;/)('! /! 1%7(%&'/'! *.!7/.5%`(!/! ;12*5'>! G;;1!

)101'Z!)/'!;*A('&1!A/'/!1%7(%&'/'!/;!;(3*+B1;!1!/&5%25'!(;!(4N1&50(;!A'(A(;&(;!A13/!A1;<*5;/!

CH?F^EH:!IJJIL>!!

?! A1;<*5;/! /<*5! /A'1;1%&/)/! M(5! 7(%;&'*S)/! /! A/'&5'! )1! *.! .=&()(! )1! /4(')/21.!

5%)*&50(>! G;;1! .()(! ;1! 7/'/7&1'56/! A13/! 7(.A'11%;,(! )(;! M1%9.1%(;! A/'&5%)(! )1!

7(%;&/&/+B1;!./5;!A/'&57*3/'1;!05;/%)(!/&5%25'!*./!7(%73*;,(!./5;!/4'/%21%&1!)(!<*1!;1*!

A1%;/.1%&(!5%575/3:!/37/%+/%)(!/;;5.!/;!315;!1!&1('5/;>!H1%)(!1;;1!4/;1/)(!1.!7(%;&/&/+B1;:!

(!.=&()(! 5%)*&50(! '1;*3&/! /A1%/;!1.!7(%73*;B1;!A'(0Z015;!)1! ;1'1.!01')/)15'/;:! ;1.! ;1!

7(%;(35)/'!7(.(!01')/)1!/4;(3*&/!CH?F^EH:!IJJIL>!

^1%)(!7(.(!(4N1&50(!21'/3!)1;;1!&'/4/3`(!(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)1!*./!;*A1'MS751!&R8&53!

05%7*3/)/!f!71%/!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/:!/!/%Z35;1!A/'&5*!)/!7(.A'11%;,(!)(!.(05.1%&(!

O/%2*141/&!(7(''5)(!%/!)=7/)/!)1!TJ!A1'7141%)(!;1*;!'1;*3&/)(;!;(75/5;!1!1;&=&57(;:!A/'/!

Page 52: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

45

1%&,(! /%/35;/'! (! ;1*! )1;1%'(3/'! /&=! /&5%25'! /! 71%/! .*;57/3! /&*/3>! G;&1! '1;*3&/)(! )1;;/;!

/%Z35;1;!M(5!/A357/%)(!1.!*.!A'()*&(!)1!.()/>!?!A/'&5'!)1!U/3(.5%(!CIJJI:!A>"rL:!;1!&('%/!

./5;! 73/'(! (! 1%&1%)5.1%&(! )/! 5%01;&52/+,(! /<*5! A'(A(;&/P!

/7(.A/%`/!(!01;&*Z'5(!1!(!&1.A(:!<*1!5%&12'/!(!;5.A31;!*;(!)/;!'(*A/;!%(!)5/@/@)5/!/!*.!

7(%&18&(!./5(':! ;(75/3:!A(3S&57(:! )1%)(!/;;5.:!(;!(4N1&50(;!4*;7/)(;!

%1;;1!&'/4/3`(!7(.(!'1;*3&/)(!)(;!M1%9.1%(;!;(75/5;!<*1!;1',(!/<*5!/%/35;/)(;>!

?&'/0=;! )(;! (4N1&50(;! 1;;/! A1;<*5;/! ;1! 7/'/7&1'56(*! 7(.(! 18A3('/&Y'5/>! U/'/!

&(!5%&1317&*/3!=!;1.A'1!

/&5%25'! /! A(%&/:! 5;&(! =:! 7`12/'! /(! 1;&Z25(!./5;! )/! (M1'&/! )1! '1;A(;&/;! /! *./! %171;;5)/)1!

&1./:! A'(7*'/%)(! /! M/.535/'56/+,(! 7(.! (! <*1! M(5! e*/;1! ;1.A'1! ;1! 4*;7/! 1;;/!

M/.535/'5)/)1! A13/! A'(;A17+,(! )1! ./&1'5/5;! <*1! A(;;/.! 5%M('./'! /(! A1;<*5;/)('! /! '1/3!

5.A('&Q%75/! )(! A'(431./!

! !

?AY;!5)1%&5M57/'!)1!<*1!M('./!(!&1./!;1'5/!/4(')/)(:!M(5!%171;;Z'5(!7(.A'11%)1'!<*/3!

.=&()(! 131;!'1A'1;1%&/.!/;!1&/A/;!./5;!7(%7'1&/;!

)/!5%01;&52/+,(:!1;;/;!<*1!&1.!/!M5%/35)/)1!)1!18A357/'!)1!.()(!21'/3!(!M1%9.1%(!/%/35;/)( !

Ca?l?^EH:! IJJj:! A>T"L>! F1;;/! A1;<*5;/:! *.! )(;!.=&()(;! )1! A'(71)5.1%&(! *&5356/)(! M(5! (!

M5%/35)/)1!)1!01'5M57/'!;5.535&*)1;!1!18A357/'!)501'2R%75/;s>>>t!=!*;/)(!&/%&(!A/'/!7(.A/'/+B1;!

1%&,(:! 1;;1!.=&()(! ;1'05*! A/'/! 7(.A'11%)1'! /! 71%/!./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1/! /! A/'&5'! )/!

7(.A/'/+,(!)1!5./21%;!)(;!/'&5;&/;!1!71%Z'5(;!/&*/5;!7(.!(;!)(!O/%2*141/&!)/!)=7/)/!)1!

Page 53: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

46

TJ>!G;&/!7(.A/'/+,(!(4N1&50(*!7/'/7&1'56/'!(;!131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;! '1A'1;1%&/&50(;!)/!71%/!

./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/!A('!;1.13`/%+/;!1!)5;&5%+B1;!7(.!/!)(!A/;;/)(>!!

E!(*&'(!.=&()(!)1!A'(71)5.1%&(!*&5356/)(!M(5!(!1;&'*&*'/35;&/>!\1!.()(!/.A3(!A()1@

;1!1%&1%)1'!1;;1!7(.(!*.!A'(71;;(!)1! 5%01;&52/+,(!<*1!A/'&1!)1!*.!M1%9.1%(!7(%7'1&(:!

1310/%)(@(!/!*.!%S013!/4;&'/&(:!7(%;&'*5%)(!)1!*.!.()13(:!(%)1!;1!A1'714/!*./!1;&'*&*'/!

<*1!)1.(%;&'1!/!18A1'5R%75/!0505)/!A13(!;*N15&(!;(75/3!)1%&'(!)(!M1%9.1%(>!?;;5.!05;/!21'/'!

*.!.()13(! <*1! ;1N/! 7(.*.!/! (*&'/;! 18A1'5R%75/;! `*./%/;>! a/u/&(;! CIJJj:! A>TrL! 18A357/P!

13/! =! (4N1&50/n! /;;5.! &()/! /% /! *&5356/+,(! )1;;1!

.=&()(! A(;;54535&(*! A1'7141'! /;! '13/+B1;! ;1.13`/%&1;! <*1! ;*'21.! %/! 71%/! O/%2*1!

7(%&1.A('Q%1/!1.!'13/+,(!/(!O/%2*141/&!)(;!/%(;!TJ>!!

F/!;12*%)/!M/;1:!/!.1&()(3(25/!A'(N1&*/3!/)(&/)/!A/'/!7(%;&'*+,(!)(!A'()*&(!1.!;5!

M(5!f!)1;1%0(305)/!A('!H/%7`1;!CIJJWL>!F1;;/:!/;!M1''/.1%&/;!)(!A'(71;;(!7'5/&50(!)(!)1;52%!

NZ!1%7(%&'/.@;1!/35/)/;!7(.!/;!%171;;5)/)1;!)(!A'()*&(!)1!.()/:!)1.(%;&'/%)(!!&()/;!/;!

1&/A/;!)(!A'(71;;(!7'5/&50(!%171;;Z'5/;!A/'/!;1!/37/%+/'!*.!'1;*3&/)(!;/&5;M/&Y'5(>!

\1;;1!.()(:!(!A'(71)5.1%&(!.1&()(3Y257(! C.1&()(3(25/! 751%&SM57/!1!A'(N1&*/3L!/<*5!

/A'1;1%&/)(! M(5! /A357/)(! A/'/! (! )1;1%0(305.1%&(! *./! ;*A1'MS751! &R8&53! 5%;A5'/)/! %(;!

131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;!)/!71%/!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1/>!

!

V>I#!-(31&/!)1!\/)(;!

E! A'(71)5.1%&(! )1! 7(31&/! )1! )/)(;! '1A'1;1%&/! /! M/;1! )/! /A357/+,(! )(;! .=&()(;!

A'Z&57(;! *&5356/)(;! A/'/! 7(31&/'! /;! 5%M('./+B1;! %171;;Z'5/;:! 7(%;&'*5%)(! *.! '/75(7S%5(! 1.!

&('%(!)(!M1%9.1%(!1;&*)/)(>!

Page 54: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

47

$%575/3.1%&1!4*;7/.(;! 7'5/'! M/.535/'5)/)1! 7(.!(! &1./P! '1/356/.(;!/! 7(31&/!)1!)/)(;!

)(7*.1%&/5;!/!A/'&5'!)1!5%M('./+B1;!45435(2'ZM57(;!NZ!1)5&/)(;:!(*!;1N/:!/A(5(*@;1!1.!)/)(;!

;17*%)Z'5(;!)1!A1;<*5;/>!?;;5.:!/!./5('!A/'&1!)(;!)(7*.1%&(;!7(31&/)(;!M(5!A'(01%51%&1!)1!

350'(;:!'105;&/;!1!)/!5%&1'%1&>!U/'&1!)(!7('A*;:!1%&'1&/%&(:!M(5!7(%;&5&*S)/!A('!M(%&1!A'5.Z'5/P!

/32*./;! 5./21%;! )/! 71%/!./%2*1! /&*/3! /3=.! )1! ;1'1.! 7(31&/)/;! 1.! M(%&1;! ;17*%)Z'5/;:!

M('/.!7(31&/)/;!&/.4=.!/!A/'&5'!)1!M(&(2'/M5/;!&5'/)/;!A13(!A'YA'5(!A1;<*5;/)('!)*'/%&1!(;!

;`(b;! )/;! 4/%)/;! A1;<*5;/)/;>! U/'/! &/%&(:! (! A1;<*5;/)('! ;13175(%(*! /;! 4/%)/;! A('!

7(%01%5R%75/! C4/%)/;! <*1! ;1! /A'1;1%&/'/.! %/! 75)/)1! )*'/%&1! /! M/;1! )1! 7(31&/L! 1!

'1A'1;1%&/&505)/)1! @! *&5356/%)(!A/'/! &/%&(:! (;! 131.1%&(;!)5M1'1%75/)('1;!)/;!)*/;! M/;1;!)(!

.(05.1%&(:!310/%&/)(;!A('!a1,(!CIJJWL>!

?!A'(A(;&/!)1!7(%;&'*5'!/!4/;1!)/!A1;<*5;/!/!A/'&5'!)1! 5./21%;! )101*@;1!/! 7(%)5+,(!

)(;!'125;&'(;!05;*/5;!C5./21%;!1!M(&(;L!;1'1.!*.!.15(!A()1'(;(!)1!7/A&*'/'!/+B1;!&1.A('/5;!

)1! /7(%&175.1%&(;! '1/5;:! A()1%)(! ;1'! 1.A'12/)(;! 7(.(! )/)(;! A'5.Z'5(;! A/'/! A1;<*5;/!

;(75/5;! %,(! %171;;5&/%)(! )1! (*&'/;! 5%M('./+B1;:! ;1%)(:! 5%73*;501:! *./! M('./! )1! '125;&'(!

5%)57/)/!%1;;1!.(.1%&(!1.!<*1!(!.*%)(!=! 7'1;71%&1.1%&1! 5%M3*1%75/)(!A13(;!.15(;!)1!

7(.*%57/+,(!1!(;!'1;*3&/)(;!)1A1%)1.!)1!131.1%&(;!05;*/5;>!G;;1;!131.1%&(;!;1!&('%/'/.!

aE$p?H:!IJJIL>!?!7(31&/!)(7*.1%&/3!)/;!)*/;!M(%&1;!M('.(*!(!7('A*;!)1;&/!

A1;<*5;/>!

U('! .15(! )/! (4;1'0/+,(! )5'1&/! M(5! '1/356/)(! *.! 310/%&/.1%&(! )/! 1;&=&57/! A'/&57/)/!

A13(;!2'*A(;!CM('./!)1!;1!01;&5'!1!21;&*/35)/)1L!%/;!/A'1;1%&/+B1;>!?!7(31&/!)1!5./21%;!M(5!

'1/356/)/! )*'/%&1! (! A'5.15'(! ;1.1;&'1! )1! IJ"J! %/! 75)/)1! )(! _175M1:! 1! M('/.! A1;<*5;/)/;!

)*/;!4/%)/;!.*;57/5;>!F(!7/;(!)1!-/&/'5%/!\11!D/`!/;!M(&(;!M('/.!'1/356/)/;!)5/!II!)1!/4'53:!

%*.! ;`(b!<*1!(7(''1*!%(!G;A/+(!Oi\?>!?! /A'1;1%&/+,(! )1! D'>! ]3/7u! (7(''1*! )*'/%&1! (;!

M1;&1N(;!)1!H,(!D(,(:!%(!)5/!T!)1!N*%`(!%/!_*/! (̂./65%/>!?;!)*/;!/A'1;1%&/+B1;!'1;*3&/'/.!

Page 55: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

48

%*.! &(&/3! )1! 71'7/! )1! jJ! M(&(;! (%)1! 1;&,(! '1A'1;1%&/)/;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! ;5%2*3/'1;! )(;!

/'&5;&/;!1!;*/;!'13/+B1;!)5'1&/;!7(.!(!O/%2*141/&:!%(;!/*8535/%)(!/!5)1%&5M57/'!(;!131.1%&(;!

M*%)/.1%&/5;!)(!%(0(!A1'M53!1;&=&57(!)(!.(05.1%&(!O/%2*1>!

!

V>V#!U'(71)5.1%&(;!?%/3S&57(;!

\5/%&1! )/;! )501';/;! &=7%57/;! )1! )1;1%0(305.1%&(! )1! A'()*&(;! <*1! (! )1;52%1'! A(;;*5!

7(.(! M1''/.1%&/! )1! &'/4/3`(:! /!.1&()(3(25/! A'(N1&*/3! 1;7(3`5)/! A/'/! (! )1;1%0(305.1%&(!

)1;;1! A'()*&(! M(5! /! )1! H/%7`1;! CIJJW/L>! G;&/! M(5! 1315&/! A('! ;1! 0(3&/'! )5'1&/.1%&1! A/'/! /;!

1;A175M57/+B1;!)(!\1;52%!)1!O()/:!1!A('!/A'1;1%&/'!*./!;5;&1./&56/+,(!;5%&=&57/:!&('%/%)(!

/;;5.! ./5;! )5'1&/! f! 7(%71A+,(! )1;;1! A'()*&(>! ?! /*&('/! CIJJW! 4L! A'(AB1! )5'1&'561;! A/'/!

7(%;&'*+,(!)1!*.!A'()*&(!)505)5)(!1.!75%7(!1&/A/;!CM52>!TL>!

?! /*&('/! 7(%;&'Y5! /! A3/&/M('./!)1!13/4('/+,(! )! (! )5/2'/./! 5%)57/&50(!)/;! )5'1&'561;!

1.4/;/)/! 1.! 0Z'5(;! /*&('1;P! ay4/7`! CIJJ"L:! ]/8&1'! C"TTmL:! a5)/! C"TTmL:! q(.1;! CIJJ"L:!

O/v%/')1;!CIJJIL>!

E!)5/2'/./!/A'1;1%&/!/32*./;!;*4@1&/A/;!<*1:!;12*%)(!/!/*&('/!CIJJW!/L:!)101.!;1!

'13/75(%/'!7(.!/;!%171;;5)/)1;!1;A17SM57/;!)(!A'()*&(!/!;1'!)1;1%0(305)(:!/+,(!<*1!2/'/%&1!

/;;5.! /! M31854535)/)1! /A(%&/)/! 7(.(! %171;;Z'5/! A/'/! (! )1;1%0(305.1%&(! )1! <*/3<*1'!

A'()*&(!)1!.()/>!?!;131+,(!)/;!.1;./;!;1'Z!/A'1;1%&/)/!%(!A'Y85.(!7/AS&*3(!C)1;7'5+,(!

)(;!'1;*3&/)(;L:!(7/;5,(!1.!<*1!)1;7'101'1.(;!7/)/!*./!)/;!1&/A/;!A'(N1&*/5;!%171;;Z'5/;!

A/'/!(!)1;1%0(305.1%&(!)(!A'1;1%&1!A'(N1&(>!

!

!

!

Page 56: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

49

!

8&0*0!34!654X*-4!! Y5(&'.Z&Q[4!34!6*'0&7*'-4!25.&-.\4! /Q]*0!!!!!!!!!!?5*6&5&Q[4!

!$)1%&5M57/'!*.!A'(431./!/!;1'!'1;(305)(!

$)1%&5M57/'!7(.A('&/.1%&(;!`*./%(;!9:"2(5"$+.;+"'(.8-,.'&,*&*'<(<*1!;5%/3561.!/!)1./%)/!A('!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/!

-(%`171'!.13`('!(!A'(431./! -(31&/'!)/)(;!;(4'1!1;&1;!7(.A('&/.1%&(;!

!\1M5%5'!(;!35.5&1;!)(!A'(431./!1!(;!(4N1&50(;!4Z;57(;!)(!U'(N1&(!!

\1M5%5'!/!)1./%)/!/!;1'!/&1%)5)/!/&'/0=;!)1!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/:!)1M5%5%)(!(!U'(431./!)1!=.'*/$()1!O()/>!

!!!?4/;&171'!/!.1%&1!7(.!5%M('./+B1;!1%0(305)/;!%/!4*;7/!A('!;(3*+B1;!

-(31&/'!)/)(;!;(4'1!(!AX4357(!C%171;;5)/)1;!)1!7(%M('&(!1!)1!35%2*/21.!05;*/3L!U1;<*5;/'!&1%)R%75/;!;(75(7*3&*'/5;:!)1!.()/:!./&1'5/5;!1!&17%(3(25/;!<*1!;1!05%7*31.!7(.P!(!*%501';(!)(!6^,M.24P&M\4!.(9.8-,.'&(C35.5&/+B1;!A'()*&50/;!1!.1'7/)(3Y257/;L>!

!\1M5%5'!(!7/.5%`(!A/'/!7`12/'!f!;(3*+,(!

\135.5&/'!/;!1;A175M57/+B1;!)(!A'(N1&(!\135.5&/'!(!7(%715&(!21'/)(!H5%&1&56/'!(!7(%715&(!1.!'1M1'R%75/;!)1!35%2*/21.!05;*/3!

!_*5&Q[4!

!i;/'!(;!7/%/5;!)1!18A'1;;,(!A/'/!21'/'!A(;;54535)/)1;!)1!;(3*+,(!

q1'/'!/3&1'%/&50/;!)1!;(3*+,(!)(!A'(431./!C.')">"'?!.'.$6"'(.(.;-.,*8.$+&>@.'(+,*!*8.$'*"$&*'<!G;&*)/'!7(%M52*'/+,(:!./&1'5/5;!1!&17%(3(25/;!

!/\&M.&Q[4!

?0/35/'!/!7(1'R%75/!)/;!A'(A(;&/;!21'/)/;!7(.!(!7/.5%`(!)1M5%5)(!

?0/35/'!/;!/3&1'%/&50/;:!3*!&24534!247!24'2*.-4K!*06*2.;.2&Q]*0!34!654X*-4!

H13175(%/'!/!A'(A(;&/!./5;!7(1'1%&1:!)1!/7(')(!7(.!(!7/.5%`(!)1M5%5)(!1!(;!(4N1&50(;!)135.5&/)(;!

H13175(%/'!/;!/3&1'%/&50/;!7(1'1%&1;!!

!!`*-&MJ&7*'-4!

!!G3/4('/'!/!A'(A(;&/:!)1&/3`/%)(@/!1!1;&*)/%)(!/!;*/!05/4535)/)1!/&'/0=;!)1!18A1'5.1%&/+B1;!

\1&/3`/'!/!7(%M52*'/+,(!)(;!A'()*&(;!;13175(%/)(;!C!.'.$6"'(+A5$*5"'L!z\1;1%0(301'!18A1'5.1%&/+B1;!&'5)5.1%;5(%/5;!?0/35/'!7/5.1%&(:!7(%M('&(:!*;/4535)/)1:!5.A/7&(!/.451%&/3!1!7*;&(!-(''525'!101%&*/5;!5%/)1<*/+B1;!

`42)7*'-&Q[4!?&5&!6543)Q[4!

G;A175M57/'!1!)(7*.1%&/'!)1&/3`1;!&=7%57(;!)1!A'()*+,(!

G3/4('/'!M57`/!&=7%57/!)1M5%5&50/!1!!A'(&Y&5A(!

8.()5&!a! !3.5*-5.Z*0!6&5&!*M&,45&Q[4!34!6543)-4!3*!743&!'&!&2&3*7.&#!84'-*9!G&'2J*0!A"BBTC!

Page 57: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

50

!

!

!

j#!\1;7'5+,(!)1!'1;*3&/)(;!

!

G;;1! 7/AS&*3(! )1.(%;&'/! (! A'(71;;(! )1! 7'5/+,(! 1! '1/356/+,(! )/! A'(A(;&/! A'(N1&*/3:!

2*5/)/!A13/;!75%7(!1&/A/;!.1&()(3Y257/;!)1!H/%7`1;!CIJJWL!

!

j>"#!U'1A/'/+,(!

?!1&/A/!)1!A'1A/'/+,(!;1!'1M1'1!/(!.(.1%&(!)1!05;*/356/'!1!1%&1%)1'!(!A'(431./!/!

;1'!'1;(305)(:!M/61%)(!/!/%/35;1!)/;!<*1;&B1;!1!/!'17(3`/!)1!)/)(;!A/'/!./5('!7(%`175.1%&(!

)/;!%171;;5)/)1;!)1./%)/)/;>!!

F(! %(;;(! 7/;(! M(5! %171;;Z'5(! A'5.15'/.1%&1! '17(%`171'! (! &1./! /! <*1! (!.1;.(! ;1!

'1M1'5/>! \*'/%&1! /! A1;<*5;/! 45435(2'ZM57/! A1'7141*@;1! *./! 7/'R%75/! )1! 5%M('./+,(!

'13/75(%/)/!f!<*1;&,(!1;A17SM57/!)1!<*/5;!131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;!;1!05%7*3/0/.!f!%(0/!M/;1!)(!

.(05.1%&(!./%2*1:!/A1;/'!)/;! M(%&1;!/A(%&/'1.!<*1!(!.(05.1%&(!./%2*1!)(;!/%(;!TJ!

`/05/! ;(M'5)(! &'/%;M('./+B1;>! ?;;5.:! 4*;7/.(;! /! ('51%&/+,(! A/'/! A'(.(01'! *./! /%Z35;1!

7(.A/'/&50/!)/;! 5./21%;!1%&'1!/!71%/!./%2*1!/&*/3!1!)(!O/%2*141/&:!%/;!A(*7/;!M(%&1;!

<*1!M/65/.!'1M1'R%75/!/!1;&1!A'(71;;(!)1!.*)/%+/>!G;&/!1&/A/!%(;!7(%)*65*!/!*.!7(%715&(!

21'/)('! /71'7/! )(;! 131.1%&(;! ;52%5M57/&50(;! )/! %(0/! M/;1! )(! .(05.1%&(:! 21'/%)(! *./!

;S%&1;1!05;*/3!1!7(%;&5&*5%)(!*.!A(%&(!)1!A/'&5)/!A/'/!/!7(%71A+,(!)(!A'()*&(>!!

Page 58: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

51

E4N1&50/%)(!4*;7/'!(;!131.1%&(;!'1M1'1%75/5;!)/!;12*%)/!M/;1!)(!.(05.1%&(:! M('/.!

A1;<*5;/)/;!&'R;!4/%)/;P!-/&/'5%/!\11!D/`:! D'>!]3/7u!1!-`/.4/'53:! ! 7*N/;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!;,(!

)1;7'5&/;!/!;12*5'>!

!j>">"#!^'R;!4/%)/;P!(!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1(!

-/&/'5%/! \11! D/`! /A'1;1%&/! *.! &'/4/3`(! <*1! 7/''12/! 131.1%&(;! )1! )5M1'1%&1;!

01'&1%&1;:!'1M1'R%75/;!<*1!;1!7`(7/.!1!21'/.!*.!A1'M53!<*1!M(21!)1!'Y&*3(;>! $%&5&*3/)/!)1!

D(13./!U*%u:!)1%(.5%/+,(!<*1!;1!'1M1'1!/(!%(.1!)/!0(7/35;&/!)/!4/%)/!)1!4'12/!-/35A;(:!

7/.5%`/!1%&'1!1;;/;!)*/;!01'&1%&1;!;1.!A'17(%715&(;:!%(!;1*!8B'-&5.!/!7/%&('/!/A'1;1%&/!

7(.(!'1M1'R%75/;!%(!;1*!&'/4/3`(!M52*'/;!)1;7(%18/;!1%&'1!;5!1!)1!)501';/;!Z'1/;:!1%&'1!13/;P!

]'525&&1! ]/')(&:! -/'.1%! O5'/%)/:! O>$>?>:! O/&/! x/'5:! -31YA/&'/:! H`/u5'/:! q*5&/! -`/'5Mu1':!

D/;A5(%:!a*')16!\/!a*6:!O/'5/!](%5&/:!a5/!)1!$&/./'/7Z>?3=.!)1;;/;:!13/!A(;;*5!'1M1'R%75/;!)/!

.X;57/! 131&'9%57/:! A(5;! 7(.1+(*! /! 7/''15'/! 7(.(! \N:! M*%+,(! <*1! 7*.A'1! /&=! `(N1:! )1;;/!

M('./! ;/.A31';! 1! 4/&5)/;! 131&'9%57/;! M/61.! A/'&1! )(! ;1*! ;(.! )/%+/%&1>! U1'7141@;1! *./!

'13/+,(!/&1.A('/3!(%)1!(!05%&/21!1!(!/&*/3:!&/.4=.!5%&1'/21.!7(.!/!7*3&*'/3!)1!./;;/:!/!

7*3&*'/! A(A*3/'! 1! /! 7*3&*'/3! )1! 135&1:! 1! &()/;! 1;;/;! '1M1'R%75/;! 7/''12/.!(!.1;.(!A1;(!1!

M/61.!A/'&1!)/!1;&=&57/!;5%2*3/'!)1!-/&/'5%/>!H*/;!.X;57/;!&'/&/.!)1!M('./!41.!`*.('/)/!

)1!&1./;!)(!)5/@/@

7`12/!/!./7`*7/'!(;!)1;/05;/)(;>!O/;!&/.4=.!;/41!1.(75(%/'!(;!7('/+B1;!1!(3`(;!/&1%&(;!

8B'-&5.C!)/!/'&5;&/!1!<*1!;5%&1&56/!

&()(!(!1;AS'5&(!A'1;1%&1!%/!A'()*+,(!.*;57/3!)1!-/&/'5%/!\11!D/`>!

3 Ov;A/71!=!*.!1;A/+((5%&1'/&50(!)1!1%&'1&1%5.1%&(!1!7(.*%57/+,(!*&5356/)(!A13(;!5%&1'%/*&/;:!(%)1!=!7(3(7/)(!*./!)1;7'5+,(!A1';(%/356/)/!)(!A1'M53!)(!*;*Z'5(>

Page 59: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

52

E!&'/4/3`(!)1!D'>!]3/7u!&/.4=.!/A'1;1%&/!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!)/!.X;57/!131&'9%57/:!(!;1*!

;(.!;/.A31/)(j! D2$3!1!

)%&53( 82'*5! %/;! 4/&5)/;! )1! ;*/;! .X;57/;>! ?3=.! )1;;/;! '1M1'R%75/;:! ]3/7u! .5;&*'/! %(! ;1*!

&'/4/3`(!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!A'(01%51%&1;!)1!&()/!/!;*/!7/''15'/:!<*1!5%73*1.!/!4/%)/!F12'((01!

8B'-&5.:!1! ;*/;!

3(7*+B1;!1.!N5%231;!A*43575&Z'5(;:!/3=.!)(!&1.A(!1.!<*1!M(5!7/%&('!%/!4/%)/!)(!\N!\(3('1;>!

G;;/! .5;&*'/! 21'/! *.! ;(.! )/%+/%&1! 1! )1! MZ753! /71;;(! /(! (*05%&1:! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/! <*1! ;1!

M('&5M57/!A13/!;*/!0(6!<*1!7/''12/!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!)/!;*/!18A1'5R%75/!7(.(!3(7*&(':!1!31.4'/.!

/;! .X;57/;! <*1! ;1! (*01.! %/;! 'Z)5(;! 1! (! ;(.! )(;! 01%)1)('1;! /.4*3/%&1;! )(! 71%&'(! )/!

75)/)1>!!

E! 7(&5)5/%(! '175M1%;1! 1;&Z! A'1;1%&1! %/;! ;*/;!.X;57/;:! 131! ;1! *&5356/! )1! 7(.A(;5+B1;!

5%01%&50/;!A/'/! M/3/'!)(!)5/@

`5;&Y'5/;! &,(! .5'/4(3/%&1;:! <*1! (! (*05%&1! /7/4/! /7'1)5&/%)(! .1;.(! ;1.! &1'! 71'&16/! ;1!

/<*53(!=!01 8B'-&5.!)(!7/%&(':!<*1!18A357/!41.!(!

7(%715&(!A('! &'Z;!)1! ;*/;! 31&'/;>! G.!*./!)/;!.X;57/;! 131! M/3/!)1!*./!05/21.!)1! 01',(!f!

)5M57*3

735./! M1;&50(:! <*1! '5! )1! ;5! .1;.(:! %,(! ;1! 310/! /! ;='5(:! 21'/%)(! *.! &(.! ;5.AZ&57(! <*1!

M/753.1%&1!/2'/)/!(!(*05%&1>!!

-`/.4/'53!=!(!%(.1!)1!*./!7(.5)/!&SA57/!)(!%(')1;&1:!M15&/!7(.!(!.X;7*3(!1!(!(;;(!

)(!4(5!<*1!1.!21'/3!=!/7(.A/%`/)(!)1!*.!A5',(!M15&(!7(.!(!7/3)(!)(!7(65)(!1!/''(6!4'/%7(>!

G;;/! 7(.45%/+,(! 1;&'/%`/! ;1! '13/75(%/! 7(.! (! ;(.! A'()*

4 Proveniente da palavavra sampler, que se trata de um instrumento musical onde pode-se manipular os sons para criar novas e complexas melodias ou efeitos.

Page 60: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

53

/%/3Y257(@131&'9%57(:! /;! 4/&5)/;! ;,(! M15&/;! )1! <*/3<*1'! ;(.! 1! /! .13()5/! =! 7(%;5;&1%&1!

/&'/0=;!)1!*.!A5',(!M('./)(!A('!'&8-%.,'!)1!&()(!&5A(!)1!'125;&'(!M(%(2'ZM57(P!)1!-(;&5%`/!

!%(!;5&1!)/!^'/./!k5'&*/3:! ;1! '1M1'5%)(!/(!

7(%&/)('!)1!A5/)/;!4'/;5315'(! 1! /! 4/%)/! )1! 6.&4B(8.+&%! 4'5&Q%57/:! '1013/%)(!*./! '13/+,(!

1%&'1!3*'+56h4'12/!1!(!8&*$'+,.&87!!

F(0/.1%&1!;1!A1'7141!*./!7(%18,(!)1!131.1%&(;!)5;&5%&(;!%/!M('./+,(!)(!A1'M53!)/!

4/%)/! %1;;1! 71%Z'5(! )(! ./%2*1! /&*/3>! ?5%)/! &1%&/%)(! 18A357/'! /! ;*/! .X;57/! /! 4/%)/!

A'5%7SA5(! 1! )501'&5)(! 1! )/%+/%&1! <*/%)(! 0(7R! A/;;/! /! (*05'! .13`('>! ?;! '1M1'R%75/;!

;/.A

*&5356/!)1!2'/0/+B1;!)1!)5;7(;!)1!05%53!/%&52(;!A/'/!7(%;&'*5'!*./!%/''/&50/!)1;1%7(%&'/)/>!

/,""4.'!)1!!*'5"(82'*5:!Z34*%;!M/3/)(;:!310/)/;!N(01.!2*/')/!1!05(3B1;!)1!M(;;/:!%,(!

D/.1';(%! )1! a5./! :1.! 75&/+,(! %(! ;5&1!

E01'.*%)(>!!

?&'/0=;!)1;;/;!/M5'./+B1;!A1'7141.(;!*./!7(%;&'*+,(!;(%('/!;5.53/'!/!21'/)/!A13(;!

71%&'(;!)/;!2'/%)1;!75)/)1;:!7(.(!%(!4/5''(!)/!](/!k5;&/:!1.!_175M1>!E%)1!(;!01%)1)('1;!

/.4*3/%&1;!1!/;! 3(N/;:!/!M5.!)1!/&'/5'!7351%&1;:!7(%;&'(1.!*./!01')/)15'/!A(3*5+,(!;(%('/:!

7/)/!*.!7(.!;1*!;(.!A/'&57*3/'!&1%&/.!7`/./'!/!/&1%+,(!)(;!&'/%;1*%&1;>!F1;;1!.1;.(!

3(7/3:!=!(%)1!(!7`/.4/'53:!=!*.!A'/&(!&SA57(!1!4/;&/%&1!7(%;*.5)(!%(;!.1'7/)(;!AX4357(;:!;1!

&('%/!./5;!A(A*3/'! 1!)5;;1.5%/)(>!?;;5.:! &*)(!1%7(%&'/! ;1*! 3*2/':! 1!(!-`/.4/'53:! A/'171!

M/61'!;1%&5)(>!!

F/!71%/!/&*/3!;1!A1'7141!<*1!/!'13/+,(!7(.!/32*%;!S7(%1;!)(!O/%2*1!A1')1.!;1%&5)(!

1!(*&'(;!;1!M('&5M57/.!1!21'/.!/!5)1%&5)/)1!)1;;1!.(.1%&(>!F,(!185;&1!*./!'13/+,(!579%57/:!

7(.(!185;&5/!%(!O/%2*141/&:!/!M52*'/!)(!7/'/%2*1N(:!)/!A/'/4Y357/!%/!3/./:!;/5'/.!)(!M(7(:!

Page 61: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

54

/;;5.!7(.(!(;!131.1%&(;!)/!7*3&*'/!3(7/3:!%,(!;1!A1'7141!./5;!/!M52*'/!)(!./'/7/&*:!%1.!

)(!A'YA'5(!./%2*1:!A('!181.A3(>!?;!'1M1'R%75/;! 3(7/5;!;,(!./5;!;*&5;!1!7(&5)5/%/;!:!.1%(;!

/312Y'57/;!1!7(%715&*/;:!/A/'171.!%(!;(&/<*1!)(;!7/%&('1;:!%(!*;(!)1!A/3/0'/;h18A'1;;B1;!

3(7/5;! 1! )/!%/''/+,(!)1! ;5&*/+B1;! (7(''5)/;!%(!_175M1>! U1'7141@;1!<*1!(! 7(%715&(! )(! 7/(;!

(7*A/!./5('! 1;A/+(:! %(!.(.1%&(! )/! 7(%;&'*+,(! ;(%('/! 7`15/! )1! '1M1'R%75/;! <*1!.*5&/;!

0161;!%,(!;1!7(.*%57/.!A('!;5!;Y:!./5;!2/%`/.!(*&'(!;1%&5)(!%/!A'()*+,(!)(;!/'&5;&/;>E!

7/(;!&/.4=.!;1!'1M1'1!/(!'5&.(!)/!75)/)1:!A('=.!%,(!/A/'171!1.!&(.!)1!7'S&57/:!./;!;5.!

7(.(!131.1%&(!)(!)5/@)5/!1!M('+/!7'5/&50/>!!

?;;5.:! /! A/'&5'! )/;! /%Z35;1;! M(5! A(;;S013! ;1! )135.5&/'! *.! A1'M53! <*1! 7/'/7&1'56/;;1! (!

./%2*1!/&*/3>!?!.1;./!1;&Z!05%7*3/)/!7(.!*.!7/'Z&1'! 5%)1A1%)1%&1!)1!18A1'5.1%&/+,(:!

'1@7(%M52*'/%)(! (;! /;A17&(;! A'1;1%&1;! %(! O/%2*141/&! 1.! &'/+(;! .1%(;! 579%57(;! 1!

/312Y'57(;:!(%)1!/!7*3&*'/!'125(%/3!)1!'/56!A1')1!1;A/+(!A/'/!/!7*3&*'/!)1!./;;/!/2'12/%)(!

*.!&(.!3*'+56(/(!(4N1&(!M5%/3>!!

E;! '5&.(;!/A'1;1%&/)(;!%/! M52*'/!"J! M('/.!A1'7145)(;!7(.(! '1M1'R%75/;!)(!./%2*1!

7(%&1.A('Q%1(!)*'/%&1!/;!A1;<*5;/;!)1! M('./+,(!)(!.1;.(:!1!/<*5! ;1'05'/.!7(.(!4/;1!

A/'/!/! M('./+,(!)(!A1'M53!1;&53S;&57(!)(!./%2*1!/&*/3>!\5/%&1!)1;;/;! 5./21%;!=!A(;;S013!;1!

A1'7141'!;1.13`/%+/;!1!)501'2R%75/;!1.!'13/+,(!/(!./%2*1!/&*/3!1!(!./%2*141/&:!/A1;/'!

)(;!1;&53(;!.*;57/5;!/<*5!/A'1;1%&/)(;:!;1'1.!7(.A/'&53`/)(;!A('!/.4(;>!E;!X%57(;!'5&.(;!

<*1!%,(!;,(!7(.A/'&53`/)(;!1%&'1!(!./%2*1!/&*/3!1!(!./%2*141/&!;,(P!(!4'12/!1!(! *$!*.:!

A('=.! <*/%)(! 7(.A/'/)(;! /(! O/%2*1:! M(5! A(;;S013! 1%7(%&'/'! 71'&/;! ;1.13`/%+/;! 1%&'1!

131;>!!

U13/;!5./21%;!A1'7141.(;!<*1!/!./5('!M(%&1!)1!;1.13`/%+/;!;1!)Z!A13/!A(;&*'/!1%&'1!

(;! /'&5;&/;! /A'1;1%&/)(;:! %(! 7/;(! )(!./%2*1! /&*/3! /! '13/+,(! 1%&'1! 131! 1! ;*/;! '1M1'R%75/;!

/5%)/! =! ./5;! )5'1&/>! G;;/! /M5'./+,(! =! M'*&(! )/;! /%Z35;1;! '13/75(%/5;! 1%&'1! /;! 5./21%;!

Page 62: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

55

'1M1'1%&1;! /(! UiFl:! x$U@xEUh_?U:! OX;57/! GaG^_{F$-?! 1! [iFl:! (%)1! ;1! A1'7141! *./!

;1.13`/%+/!)5'1&/:!;1.!5%&1''*A+B1;!1%&'1!/!71%/!/&*/3!1!1;;1;!'5&.(;>!

!

8.()5&!$B9!25)Z&7*'-4!3&0!5*;*5<'2.&0!340!74\.7*'-40#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

Page 63: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

56

E!.1;.(!%,(!(7(''1!<*/%)(!1;;1;!'5&.(;!;,(!7(.A/'/)(;!/(!./%2*1P!/;!)5M1'1%+/;!

1;&,(!A'1;1%&1;!1! 73/'/.1%&1!05;*/356/)/;>!F(!O/%2*141/&:!(!A*%u! &'(7(*!/!2*5&/''/!A13(!

7/0/<*5%`(:!(;!21;&(;!)(!`5A@`(Ah'/A!1!M*%u!M('/.!'1@;52%5M57/)(;!%/!'1A'1;1%&/+,(!)/!A/&/!

)(!7/'/%2*1N(!1!/!.X;57/!131&'9%57/!M(5!'1A'1;1%&/)/!)1%&'(!)/!A(;&*'/!)(!O/%2*1>!?;;5.!

%(&/.(;!<*1!/!7(%;&'*+,(!)/!;5%2*3/'5)/)1!)(!./%2*1!/&*/3!;1!)Z!A13/!.5;&*'/!)1!)501';(;!

M/&('1;!A/'/!/!M('./+,(!)/!;*/!5)1%&5)/)1:!1%<*/%&(!<*1!%(!O/%2*1!;1*!A1'M53!;1!)/0/!%/!

'1@;52%5M57/+,(!)1;;/;!'1M1'R%75/;!)1%&'(!)(;!;1*;!131.1%&(;!1;A17SM57(;!1!1;;1;!/5%)/!1'/.!

.5;&*'/)(;!A/'/!/!;*/!M('./+,(>!

G%&'1!1;;1;!'5&.(;:!(!5%)51!1!(!4'12/!;1!)1;&/7/.!A('!;1'1.!7/'/7&1'S;&57(;!)(!./%2*1!

/&*/3!1!&/.4=.!A('!;1!'13/75(%/'1.!)1!M('./!)5;&5%&/!1%&'1!131;>!F/!05;*/356/+,(!)(! 5%)51!

%(&/;@;1!*./!;5.53/'5)/)1!<*1!A1'7(''1!(!./%2*1!/&*/3!1!(!O/%2*141/&:!)1;)1!/!A(;&*'/!

/&=!/!7(%;&'*+,(!1;&=&57/:!1;;/!;1.13`/%+/!;1!)Z!A('!1;;1;!)(5;!'5&.(;!7/''12/'1.!/!A(;&*'/!

5%)51:!)1!%,(!05%7*3/'1.!7(.!/;!2'/%)1;!2'/0/)('/;!1.!4*;7/!)1!7'5/'!*.!1;&53(!A'YA'5(>!G.!

'13/+,(!/(!4'12/:!/!7(%18,(!=!(*&'/!1!/A/'171.!)1!)*/;!M('./;P!%(!7/;(!)1!-/&/'5%/!\11!

D/`:! 13/! ;1! 05%7*3/! 7(.! (! 4'12/! ./5;! /&*/3:! (! 5%;1'5)(! %/! ;*/! .X;57/! 1! *&5356/%)(! /!

-.,D"8&$5.!;1%;*/3!)1;;/;!7/%&('/;!%/!;*/!A(;&*'/!)1!A/37(

M('./)/;!1873*;50/.1%&1!A('!`(.1%;:!;1!05%7*3/.!7(.!(;!/%&52(;!7/%&('1;!)1!4'12/:!*;/.!

/;! .1;./;! 7/.5;/;! 4/;&/%&1! 1;&/.A/)/;:! A('=.! )1! *./! M('./! ./5;! )1;A(N/)/:!

7(%;&'*5%)(!*.!05;*/3!<*1!7/''12/!*.!&(<*1!)1!`*.('>!

?3=.! )/;! 7/'/7&1'S;&57/;! 1;&53S;&57/;! %(&/)/;! )*'/%&1! /! A1;<*5;/! )(! ./%2*1! /&*/3:!

&/.4=.!;1!A1'7141*!*./!&1.Z&57/!'17(''1%&1!1.!;*/;!.X;57/;>!E!7(&5)5/%(!)/!75)/)1!)(!

_175M1!/A/'171!%/;!7(.A(;5+B1;!'1A'1;1%&/%)(!(;!`Z45&(;!)(;!75)/),(;:!(%)1!(!71%&'(!)/!

Page 64: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

57

75)/)1!/A/'171!7(.(!A(%&(!)1!A/'&5)/!1!)1!1%7(%&'(;!)1!)501';(;!&5A(;!)1!A1;;(/;:!/;;5.!

/A'1;1%&/%)(!(!7/(;!NZ!7/%&/)(!%/;!.X;57/;!)(!O/%2*1>!!

^1%)(!1.!05;&/!/!5.A('&Q%75/!)(!7(&5)5/%(!A/'/!/!1;&=&57/!)(!.(05.1%&(:!/!M52*'/!""!

;5%&1&56/!0Z'5(;!131.1%&(;!A1'7145)(;!7(.(!7/'/7&1'S;&57(;!)/!75)/)1!)(!_175M1:!(%)1!(!7/(;!

M/6! A/'&1! )(! )5/@)5/! )(;! ;1*;! `/45&/%&1;>! F/! 5./21.! 1;&,(! /A'1;1%&/)(;! &/%&(! 3(7/5;! )/!

75)/)1!7(.(!/;!A(%&1;:!/!?01%5)/!-(%)1!)/!](/!k5;&/:!(!7(.='75(!)(!71%&'(:!<*/%&(!71'&(;!

`Z45&(;! )(;! &'/%;1*%&1;! )/! 75)/)1:! 7(.(! 7(.1'! 7/'/%2*1N(! 1! ;1! /35.1%&/'! %(;!.1'7/)(;!

AX4357(;:!/3=.!)1!131.1%&(;!)(!7/(;!7(&5)5/%(:!'1A'1;1%&/)(;!A13(!9%54*;!3(&/)(:!(!1871;;(!

)1!A1;;(/;!1!/!A(3*5+,(!;(%('/!21'/)/!A13(;!01%)1)('1;!/.4*3/%&1;>!!

F/;!A1;<*5;/;!)(!./%2*1!/&*/3! &/.4=.!;1!A1'7141*!131.1%&(;!1;&=&57(;!A'1;1%&1;!

%/!A'()*+,(!)(;!/'&5;&/;>!?;!7/'/7&1'S;&57/;!)1!18A1'5.1%&/+,(!5%)1A1%)1%&1:!'1A'1;1%&/)/!

A13(!5%)51!1!/!1;&=&57/!3*+'560!M('/.!5)1%&5M57/)(;!7(.(!'17*';(;!5.A('&/%&1;!1!A'1;1%&1;!%/!

(4'/!)1;;1;!/'&5;&/;>!E!5%)51!NZ!M(5!'1A'1;1%&/)(!%/!M52*'/!"J:!(%)1!M561.(;!/;!7(.A/'/+B1;!

;(%('/;:! )158/%)(! ./5;! 73/'/! ;*/;! '13/+B1;! 7(.! (! ./%2*1! /&*/3>! \1;;/! M('./:! &('%/@;1!

%171;;Z'5(! /5%)/! 05;*/356/'! 131.1%&(;! )/! 1;&=&57/! 3*+'56( 7(.A31.1%&/%)(! /;! '1M1'R%75/;!

A/'/!21'/'!(!7(%715&(!)/!35%2*/21.!05;*/3!)(!.(05.1%&(!CM52>"IL>!

?! 1;&=&57/! 3*+'56:! A('! ;*/! 016:! ;1! /35.1%&/! )(! 1871;;(>! F(&/.(;! %1;&/! '1M1'R%75/!

.*5&/;! 7('1;! N*%&/;! )5;A*&/%)(! (! 1;A/+(:! *./! A'(M*;,(! )1! M('./;! ;5%*(;/;>! ?3=.! )(!

7(%715&(!)1!'1A'1;1%&/'!*./!'=A357/!)1!4/58/!<*/35)/)1!)1!(4'/;!)1!/'&1!M/.(;/;:!(!3*+'56!;1!

05%7*3/! )5'1&/.1%&1! 7(.! /! 7*3&*'/! )1! ./;;/:! %*./! A'Z&57/! <*1! 05;/! '1)5'175(%/'! (;!

131.1%&(;!)/!7*3&*'/!)1!135&1!C/3&/@7*3&*'/L!A/'/!*.!AX4357(!18A'1;;50/.1%&1!./5('!1!.1%(;!

/4/;&/)(>!

!

Page 65: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

58

!

8.()5&!$$P!!0b'-*0*!340!*M*7*'-40!2&5&2-*5b0-.240!3&!2.3&3*!34!=*2.;*#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

Page 66: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

59

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

8.()5&!$"P!!SM*7*'-40!3&!*0-1-.2&(3*+'56#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

!

j>">"#!7(%71A+,(!)(!A'()*&(P!&1%)R%75/;!)1!.()/! !01',(!IJ""!

^1%)(! 1.! 05;&/! <*1! (! A'()*&(! ;1'Z! 3/%+/)(! %(! A'5.15'(! ;1.1;&'1! )1! IJ"":! /;!

&1%)R%75/;!7(.!(!<*/3!(!.1;.(!;1!'13/75(%/'Z!;1',(!/;!)1!A'5./01'/@01',(!IJ"">!?;;5.:!/!

&/413/!)1!7('1;!1!/;!'1M1'1%75/;!7'5/&50/;!&/.4=.!A/'&5',(!)/;!A'(A(;&/;!1%7(%&'/)/;!%1;;/;!

A1;<*5;/;>! ?3=.! )1;;/;:! (! AX4357(@/30(! ;1'01! 7(.(! )135.5&/+,(! )(;! (4N1&50(;! /! ;1'1.!

/37/%+/)(;!%/!'1/356/+,(!)(!A'()*&(:!NZ!<*1!(!.1;.(!;1!'1M1'1!/!*.!&5A(!)1!*;*Z'5(!1!)1;;/!

Page 67: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

60

M('./:! 7/''12/! 1;A175M57/+B1;! )1! 7/&12('5/! 1! 1;A175M57/+,(! )(!A'()*&(>! G;;/;! 5%M('./+B1;!

M('/.! )1;.1.4'/)/;! 1.! 131.1%&(;! 05;*/5;! A('! .15(! )1! *./! M57`/@;S%&1;1! 18&'/5%)(! /!

1;;R%75/!'13/75(%/)/!f;!M('./;:!7('1;!1!&18&*'/;!CM52>"VL!

>!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

!

8.()5&!$E! !O*'3<'2.&0!3*!65.7&\*5&P\*5[4!"B$$#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

!

Page 68: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

61

\5/%&1! )/;! '1M1'R%75/;! 1%7(%&'/)/;! %/;! A1;<*5;/;! '1/356/)/;! A13(!gqHFK! =! A(;;S013!

A1'7141'!/;!&1%)R%75/;!)1!7(%;*.(!4/;1/)/;!%/;!./7'(@&1%)R%75/;!7(.A('&/.1%&/5;!A/'/!

/!&1.A('/)/!)1!A'5./01'/@01',(!IJ"":!A1'S()(!)1!3/%+/.1%&(!)(!A'(N1&(!/<*5!/A'1;1%&/)(>!

?! gqHF! =! (! A'5%75A/3! 45'9! )1! /%Z35;1! )1! &1%)R%75/;! 1! (M1'171! (! ;1'05+(! )1! A1;<*5;/! )/!

5%&1352R%75/! 7'5/&50/! 1! 7(.1'75/3! A/'/! (! 01;&*Z'5(:! 1;&53(:! )1;52%! 1! 0/'1N(:! ;*/! 1<*5A1! =!

M('./)/! A('! *./! '1)1! .*%)5/3! )1! A1'5&(;! /%/35;&/;! 5%)1A1%)1%&1;:! 5%01;&52/)('1;! 1!

N('%/35;&/;>! ?;;5.:! /&'/0=;! )1;;/;! A1;<*5;/;! M(5! A(;;S013! 7(%M52*'/'! &'R;! ./7'(@&1%)R%75/;!

<*1!&1.!7(.(!A/%(!)1!M*%)(!7(%715&*/3!/!<*1;&,(!)/!;*;&1%&/4535)/)1>!!

G%&'1!13/;!;1!)1;&/7/!A('!/A'1;1%&/'!*./!&1.Z&57/!<*1!;1!7(.*%57/!7(.!(!A'(N1&(!<*1!

1;&Z! ;1%)(! /<*5! )1;1%0(305)(:! /! ./7'(@&1%)R%75/! )1! Gei?a$p?wcE:! <*1! ;1! '1.1&1! /;!

'171%&1;! '17(%M52*'/+B1;! )1! ;&/&*;! 7*3&*'/3! 1! 17(%9.57(! %(! .*%)(! 23(4/356/)(:!

1<*5354'/%)(!A1;(;!1!.1)5)/;!)1!0/3('!1!&/.4=.!)1!`51'/'<*5/;!1;&=&57/;:! 310/%)(!(!]'/;53:!

;1*!35M1;&v31!1!;*/!A'()*+,(!/'&S;&57/!/!2/%`/'1.!./5('!1;A/+(!%(!.1'7/)(!)/!O()/>!?3=.!

)5;;(:!;1!7(.*%57/!7(.!(!&1./!)1;;1!A'(N1&(!A('!7/''12/'!7(%715&(;!'17(''1%&1;!%/!&1.Z&57/!

)(!O/%2*1!/&*/3:!7(.(!/!23(4/356/+,(:!<*14'/!)1!4/''15'/;!1! 3541')/)1!7*3&*'/3!1!/5%)/!;1!

)5'175(%/!/!*.!AX4357(!7(.*.!/(!)(!./%2*1!/&*/3!1!7(.*.!/!1;;1!A'(N1&(:!7(%;*.5)('1;!

7*3&*'/5;:!1.!&'Q%;5&(:!)1!1;7(3/'5)/)1!/3&/:!)1!N(01.!/!./)*'(>!

E! A/5%13! CM52>"jL! /A'1;1%&/! *.! .5;&*'/! )1! 5./21%;! /A(%&/)/;! A13(! gqHF! 7(.(!

;52%5M57/&50/;! %/! M('./+,(! )/! ./7'(@&1%)R%75/! )1! Gei?a$p?wcE>! G;&,(! A'1;1%&1;!

M(&(2'/M5/;! )1! (4'/;! )1! )(5;! /'&5;&/;! 4'/;5315'(;! <*1! 2/%`/'/.! A'(A('+B1;! 5%&1'%/75(%/5;:!

_50/%1! F1*1%;7`b/%)1! 1! G'%1;&(! F1&(:! /3=.! )1! /A'1;1%&/'! *./! 5./21.! )1! $%`(&5.:!

1;A/+(! 1.! O5%/;! q1'/5;! <*1! ;1! &('%(*! '1M1'1%75/! .*%)5/3! 1.! /'&1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1/>!

^/.4=.! 1;&Z! '1A'1;1%&/)(! A1+/;! )(! )1;M531! )/! E;u31%:! ./'7/! <*1! '1M31&1! (! 35M1;&v31!

5 \5;A(%S013!1.P http://www.wgsn.com/!?71;;(!1.:12/10/2010

Page 69: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

62

4'/;5315'(! &('%/%)(@(! '1A31&(!)1! ;(M5;&57/+,(>!?3=.!)1;;/;! '1M1'R%75/;!185;&1.! 5./21%;!)1!

7(%&'/A(%&(!)(!]'/;53:!/!75)/)1!)1!H,(!U/*3(:!'1A'1;1%&/)(!(!7/'Z&1'!*'4/%(!7(.(!*./;!)/;!

./5('1;!.1&'YA(31;! )(!.*%)(! 1! 71%&'(! M5%/%715'(! )(! A/S;:! 1! /! M3('1;&/! )/! /./69%57/:! (!

A*3.,(!)(!A3/%1&/!^1''/>!!

!

8.()5&!$H !%&254P-*'3<'2.&!3*!Scd/e:f/ghY#!84'-*!i_Gj!A"B$BC!

!

j>">I#!7(%71A+,(!)(!A'()*&(P!AX4357(@/30(!

E! A'(N1&(! 0(3&/@;1! A/'/! /&1%)1'! /(! AX4357(@/30(! M('./)(! A('! /;! A1;;(/;! <*1!

7(%;(.1.!/!A'()*+,(!)/;!4/%)/;!/<*5!A1;<*5;/)/;>!G;;1!AX4357(!=!7(.A(;&(!)1!N(01%;!<*1!

.('/.! %/! 75)/)1! )(! _175M1:! 0501%75/.! 1;;/! .(05.1%&/+,(! /'&S;&57/! 1! /7(.A/%`/.! (!

&'/4/3`(!)(;!/'&5;&/;!3(7/5;>!G31;!;,(!5%&1'1;;/)(;!1.!/'&1!1:!.*5&/;!0161;:!./%&=.!7(.!1;;/!

*./!)1!&'/4/3`(>!!

Page 70: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

63

?;!4/%)/;!)1;;/!/&*/3!71%/!)(!_175M1:!%,(!A(;;*1.!2'/%)1!A'(A/2/+,(!%(;!.15(;!)1!

7(.*%57/+,(!)1!./;;/!C'Z)5(!1!&13105;,(L:!;1%)(!;*/!)50*32/+,(!7(;&*.15'/.1%&1!1M1&*/)/!

A13/!'1)1!)1!/.52(;:!M('./)/!A('!A1;;(/;!7(.!5%&1'1;;1;!1.!7(.*.>!\1;;/!M('./!/;!'1)1;!

;(75/5;! )/! 5%&1'%1&! /A/'171.! 7(.(! '17*';(;! 4/;&/%&1! *&5356/)(;! A13(;! /'&5;&/;! A/'/!

A'(A/2/+,(! )(! ;1*! &'/4/3`(>! E;! 7(%;*.5)('1;! )(! ./%2*1! /&*/3! ;,(! N(01%;:! .*5&(;! ;,(!

7(%`175)(;!)(;!.X;57(;:!<*1!A(;;*1.!5)/)1!;5.53/'!0/'5/%)(!1%&'1!II!1!VK!/%(;>!!

G;;1!AX4357(!A/'/!(!<*/3!1;&/.(;!0(3&/%)(!%(;;(!A'()*&(:!A(;;*5!*./!05)/!;(75/3!/&50/:!

/7(.A/%`/!(;!;`(b;!)/;!4/%)/;!7(.!7/'Z&1'!)1!)501';,(!1!)1!7(%&/&(;!;(75/5;>!['1<|1%&/.!

;`(b;:!M1;&/;:!350'/'5/;:!&1/&'(!1!75%1./:!1.!4*;7/!)1!A'()*&(;!/*&('/5;!1!/3&1'%/&50(;>!

!

j>I#!q1'/+,(!)1!/3&1'%/&50/;!

?! /%Z35;1! 1! )1M5%5+,(! )(! A'(431./! )1! )1;52%! 21'/'/.! /;! )5'1&'561;! A/'/! A'(A('! (!

A'()*&(>! ?;! '13/+B1;! 1%&'1! /! %(0/! M/;1! )(! .(05.1%&(! ./%2*1:! /;! &1%)R%75/;! (*&(%(@

5%01'%(!IJ"":!1!/;!5%M('./+B1;!)(!AX4357(@/30(:!M('/.!;5%&1&56/)/;!1.!*.!A/5%13!;1.Q%&57(:!

<*1!%('&1(*!1!;1'05*!7(.(!'1M1'R%75/!1;&=&57/!A/'/!7'5/+,(!)(!A'()*&(!CM52>"KL>!

!!

8.()5&!$N !6&.'*M!0b'-*0*!3&0!5*;*5<'2.&0#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

Page 71: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!!!

!

\5/%&1!)/;!5./21%;!)(!A/5%13!;1!A()1!%(&/'!/!7(%;&'*+,(!)1!*.!A1'M53!A/'/!/!M('./+,(!

)(!A'()*&(>!G%7(%&'/.@;1!%1;&/! '1M1'R%75/!/;! 5./21%;!)(;!/'&5;&/;!A1;<*5;/)(;:!(;! '5&.(;!

A1'7145)(;! 1! &/.4=.! /! 5./21.! )(! 71%&'(! )/! 75)/)1! )(! _175M1P! (! 7(&5)5/%(! )/! .1;./!

'1A'1;1%&/)(! A13/! 2/'(&/! 7(.1%)(! (! 7/'/%2*1N(! *.! `Z45&(! )/! '125,(:! 1! <*1! ;1! '1M1'1!

)5'1&/.1%&1!/(!O/%2*141/&:!/3=.!)(!9%54*;!1!(!7/''5%`(!)1!;(.!'1A'1;1%&/)(!'1M1'5%)(@;1!

/!A(3*5+,(!;(%('/!)/!71%&'(!)/!75)/)1>!^/.4=.!1;&,(!A'1;1%&1!%/;!5./21%;!/;!'1M1'R%75/;!

)/!1;&=&57/!3*'+56:!A1'7145)/!%/!7(%;&'*+,(!05;*/3!)(!./%2*1!7(%&1.A('Q%1(>!?!05;*/356/+,(!

)/;!&1%)R%75/;!'1M('+(*!/!5./21.!*'4/%/:!(%)1!/!A'1;1%+/!)1!0Z'5(;!131.1%&(;!7'5/.!*./!

./;;/!)1!M52*'/;!)5M1'1%&1;!<*1!;1!/)/A&/.!%*./!X%57/!5./21.>!!

?AY;!/!)135.5&/+,(!7(%715&*/3:!M('/.!21'/)/;!/32*./;!/3&1'%/&50/;!CM52>"rL>!E!A'(71;;(!

7'5/&50(!/A'1;1%&/)(!.(;&'/!(;!)1;1%`(;!('525%/5;!)1;1%0(305)(;!1!1.!.(.1%&(;!)501';(;!

A/'&5%)(!)/!5%;A5'/+,(!<*1!;*'25/!)5/%&1!)(!7(%715&(!21'/)('>!!

!

j>V#!?0/35/+,(!

?!21'/+,(!)/;!/3&1'%/&50/;!M*%)/.1%&(*@;1!%(!7(%715&(!21'/)('!1!%/;!)135.5&/+B1;!)(!

A'(N1&(>!?!7(1'R%75/!)/;!A'(A(;&/;!21'/)/;!)1M5%5*!(!7/.5%`(!/!;12*5'!1!/A(%&(*!/!1;7(3`/!

)/! A'(A(;&/! ./5;! 7(1'1%&1:! <*1! )1M5%5*@! /! 1;&=&57/! )/! ;*A1'MS751! &R8&53! CM52>"WL:! <*1! ;1'Z!

)1&/3`/)/!%(!A'Y85.(!&YA57(>!

!

Page 72: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

!

!

8.()5&!$R !6&.'*M!(*5&Q[4!3*!&M-*5'&-.\&0#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

!

Page 73: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

8.()5&!$T &M-*5'&-.\&!0*M*2.4'&3&#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

!

j>j#!\1&/3`/.1%&(!1!)(7*.1%&/+,(!A/'/!A'()*+,(!

-(%;5)1'/%)(!(!)5'175(%/.1%&(!)/!/%Z35;1!)/;!./7'(@&1%)R%75/;!)/!A'5./01'/@01',(!

IJ""! )5;A(%545356/)/! A13/! gqHF:! (! .*%)(! 1;&Z! 7(%0501%)(! 7(.! /! A'1(7*A/+,(! )/!

;*;&1%&/4535)/)1! 1! ./%*&1%+,(! )/;! '1;1'0/;! %/&*'/5;>! \1;;1! .()(:! 0(3&/.(;! /;! %(;;/;!

A'(A(;&/;!)1!/A357/+,(!)/!1;&/.A/!)1;1%0(305)/:!A/'/!A'()*&(;!)1!.()/!<*1!./%&501;;1.!

Page 74: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

1;;/!A'1(7*A/+,(!/.451%&/3>!?!M52*'/!"m!)1.(%;&'/!/!1;&/.A/!/A357/)/!1.!*./!7/.5;/!)1!

/32(),(!7'*:!&5A(!)1!&175)(!<*1!/A'1;1%&/!.1%(;!/2'1;;,(!/!%/&*'16/>!?3=.!)/!4/%)15'/!)1!

A'1;1'0/+,(:! /! /A357/+,(! 1.! *./! 7/.5;1&/! ;1'01! 7(.(! 1;&/%)/'&1:! A(5;! '1A'1;1%&/! *.!

A'()*&(! )1! 7(%;*.(! 1! )1;1N(! A/'/! %(;;(! AX4357(@/30(:! 21'/%)(! /! 5)1%&5M57/+,(! 1%&'1! (;!

*;*Z'5(;!7(%;*.5)('1;!)/!71%/!./%2*1!/&*/3>!!

F/! M52*'/! "T! /! A'(A(;&/! )1! /A357/+,(! /A/'171! 1.! *.! /71;;Y'5(P! /! .5")&/( :*./! ;/7(3/!

'1*&5356Z013! :!<*1! &1.!7(.(!A'5%7SA5(!105&/'!(!1871;;(!)1! 358(!7'5/)(!A13/;!;/7(3/;!A3Z;&57/;!

*&5356/)(;! A/'/! 7/''12/'! (;! A'()*&(;! )*'/%&1! (! .(.1%&(! )1! 7(.A'/;! 1! <*1! ;,(!

A(;&1'5('.1%&1!)1;7/'&/)/;!>!

!

8.()5&!$U &6M.2&Q[4!*7!2&7.0*-&#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

Page 75: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

8.()5&!$a &6M.2&Q[4!*7!*24,&(#!84'-*!65@65.&!A"B$BC!

Page 76: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

!

K#!-(%73*;B1;!

!

?AY;!*.!3(%2(!A1'7*';(:!/;!7(%73*;,(!/37/%+/)/;!%(!)17(''1'!)1;;/!5%01;&52/+,(!%(;!

/*8535/.! /! 7(%73*5'! 1;;/! 7/.5%`/)/>! U'5.15'/.1%&1! =! %171;;Z'5(! '125;&'/'! (! 2'/%)1!

/A'1%)56/)(! 21'/)(! A13/! Z')*/! &/'1M/! )1! 7(.A'11%)1'! &()/! 7(.A3185)/)1! )1! *./! 71%/!

.*;57/3!A'(01%51%&1!)1!*.!.(05.1%&(!7*3&*'/3!&,(!M('&1!<*/%&(!(!O/%2*141/&:!/5%)/!./5;!

<*/%)(!M(5!%171;;Z'5(!'1@;52%5M57/'!1;;1!;1%&5)(;!A/'/!/)1<*Z@3(;!/!A'()*&(!)1!.()/>!^1%)(!

1.!05;&/!<*1!(!A1;<*5;/)('!=!.('/)('!)/!75)/)1!1!7(%0501!(;!&1./;!/<*5!/4(')/)(;!)*'/%&1!

;1*!)5/@)5/:!(!A'(71;;(! M(5! '1310/%&1!A/'/! ;1*!/./)*'1;75.1%&(!1%<*/%&(! &/3:! NZ!<*1!1;;1!

A'(71;;(! .1;.(! 5.A357(*! 1.! &1'! <*1! 1%81'2/'! 1;;1! M1%9.1%(! 7(.! *.! (3`/'! )1!

1;&'/%/`.1%&(:!A1'7141%)(!%*/%71;!<*1!.*5&/;!0161;!A/;;/.!)1;A1'7145)/;!/(!75)/),(!%(!

7(&5)5/%(!%/!75)/)1>!

F1;&1!1;&*)(!A/'&5.(;!)(!1%&1%)5.1%&(!)/!1;&=&57/!)(!O/%2*141/&!(7(''5)(!%(;!/%(;!

TJ!A/'/!7(.A'11%)1'!(!.(.1%&(!/&*/3!)/!71%/!.*;57/3!1.!_175M1>!\1;;/!M('./:!M(5!A(;;S013!

05;*/356/'!*./!2'/%)1!<*/%&5)/)1!)1!131.1%&(;!<*1!7(.A*%`/.!(!O/%2*1!1!<*1!;1'05/.!

7(.(!1;&/%)/'&1!)1!5)1%&5M57/+,(!1!M('&5M57/+,(!)/!5)1%&5)/)1!)(!5%)50S)*(!%/&50(:!<*1!/2('/!

1;&Z! ;*N15&(! /;! 5%&1'M1'%75/;! 7(%;&/%&1;! )/;! '1M1'R%75/;! 23(4/5;>! ?A1;/'! )/! 0/%2*/')/!

/A'1;1%&/)/! A13(! O/%2*141/&! M(5! A(;;S013! 05;*/356/'! 131.1%&(;! <*1! M*%)/.1%&/0/.! /!

7(.A(;5+,(! ;(%('/! 1! )1;;/! M('./! 7(.A*;1'/.! ;1*! A1'M53! 1;&=&57(>! F1;;1! ;1%&5)(:!!

5)1%&5M57/.(;!<*1!(!2'/%)1!131.1%&(!)(!O/%2*1!M(5!/!'1@;52%5M57/+,(!)1;;1;!M/&('1;!/&'/0=;!

)(;! (3`(;! 3(7/5;:! 1;;/;! '1M1'R%75/;! M('/.! &'/%;M('./)/;! 1.! (*&'(;! 131.1%&(;! <*1!

Page 77: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

./%&5%`/.!'1;<*S75(;!)/!;*/!4/;1!;(%('/:!A('=.!;1!5%&12'/0/.!)1!M('./!)5;&5%&/!7(.!;*/!

1;&=&57/!A/)',(>!

-(.(! A(;;S013! 35.5&/+,(:! &1%)(! 1.! 05;&/! /! M/3&/! )1! '1M1'%75/3! &1Y'57(! <*1! %(;!

('51%&/;;1! /71'7/! )/! 1;&=&57/! C7(%&Z0/.(;! /A1%/;! 7(.! /! 7(%;&/&/+,(! )1! .*)/%+/;! %(!

.(05.1%&(! <*1! /A(%&/0/.! A/'/! *./! %(0/! M/;1L%(! 5%S75(! )(! A'(71;;(! 1%81'2/.(;! *./!

5.A(;;54535)/)1! )1! 5)1%&5M57/+,(! )1! 131.1%&(;! A/'/! M('./+,(! 7(%715&*/3! )(! ./%2*1!

7(%&1.A('Q%1(:! A(5;! 1;;1! &/%&(! A()1'5/! 1;&/'! /5%)/! 7(.A31&/.1%&1! 05%7*3/)(! f;!

'1M1'R%75/;!)(!O/%2*141/&:! 7(.(!A()1'5/! NZ! &1'!A1')5)(!<*/3<*1'! ;1.13`/%+/!(*! '13/+,(!

7(.(!(!.1;.(>!U/'/!35)/'!7(.!1;;/!)5M57*3)/)1:!!/!1;7(3`/!)(;!/'&5;&/;!M(5!M*%)/.1%&/3!A/'/!

)1;013/'! /;! 35%2*/21%;! 05;*/5;! <*1! 7(.A*%`/.! 1! )1M5%5/.! 1;;/! %(0/! M/;1! )(!.(05.1%&(!

./%2*1>!?;;5.:! M(5!)1./'7/)(!)1!7/)/!*.!)1;&1;!(;!131.1%&(;!'17(''1%&1;!%(!O/%2*1!1!

&/.4=.!(;!M/&('1;!<*1!NZ!)5;;(75/0/.!)(!.1;.(:!/A(%&/%)(!A/'/!*.!%(0(!3*2/'>!!

\1;;/!M('./:!A*)1.(;!7(%;&/&/'!<*1!/!'13/+,(!7(.!(!)5/@)5/!)/!75)/)1!)(!_175M1!1!(!

`Z45&(;! )1! ;1*! .('/)('1;:! ./%&501'/.! 7(%17&/)(;! /(;! 7(%715&(;! )(! O/%2*1:! <*1:! %/!

(7/;5,(:!!A'(A*%`/!M/3/'!7(.!(!.*%)(!/&'/0=;!)(!;(&/<*1!3(7/3>!U('=.!%(!.(.1%&(!/&*/3!

/;! '1M1'R%75/;! 1;&=&57/;! <*1! ;1'05'/.! )1! 4/;1! A/'/! (!O/%2*1! /2('/! /A'1;1%&/0/.!./5('!

5.A('&Q%75/! %/! 7(%;&'*+,(! )/! ;(%('5)/)1! )(;! /'&5;&/;! )(! ./%2*1! 7(%&1.A('Q%1(:! /!

5)1%&5)/)1! )1;;1;! ;*'21! A13/! M('./! )/! .5;&*'/! )1! '1M1'R%75/;! A'(01%51%&1;! )/;! ./5;!

)5M1'1%&1;!;(%('5)/)1;!1!%,(!A13/!'1;52%5M57/+,(!)1!7/)/!*.!)1;;1;!131.1%&(;>!G;;/!A'Z&57/!

.*%)/%/:!310(*!a1,(!CIJJWL!/!)1%(.5%/'!(!.(05.1%&(!)1!AY;@.()1'%(>!

?5%)/!%1;&1!7(%715&(!)1!.5;&*'/;:!(*&'(;!131.1%&(!A1'7145)(!)*'/%&1!1;;/;!A1;<*5;/;!

M(5!(!)5;&/%75/.1%&(!)/!'13/+,(!7(.!(;!'5&.(;!3(7/5;:!)/!7*3&*'/!)1!'/56!)(!1;&/)(:!M/&('1;!)1!

1%('.1!5.A('&Q%75/!A/'/!/!7(%M52*'/+,(!)(!A1'M53!)(!O/%2*141/&!%(;!/%(;!TJ:!/2('/!1;;1!

1;A/+(! M(5!(7*A/)(!A13(!1;&53(! 5%)51:! <*1!A'(AB1.!*./! 3541')/)1! 7'5/&50/! 7(.!7/'Z&1'!)1!

Page 78: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

18A1'5.1%&/+,(:!NZ!<*1!%,(!;1!'13/75(%/!7(.!/;!2'/%)1;!2'/0/)('/;:!1!(!4'12/:!<*1!/A/'171!

7(.(!M('&1!'1A'1;1%&/%&1!)/!7*3&*'/!)1!./;;/!1!;1!'1M1'1!/!35%2*/21.!)(!A(0(>!?;;5.:!*./!

'13/+,(!)5'1&/!7(.!/!1;&=&57/!3*'+56!M(5!A1'7145)/!1!05;*/356/)/!7(.(!M('&1!7/'/7&1'5;&57/!)1!

;52%5M57/+,(!%/!M('./+,(!)/!5)1%&5)/)1!)(!./%2*1!/&*/3>!!

E!.(.1%&(!A(;&1'5('!/!1;;/!7(%;&/&/+,(!)(!O/%2*1!/&*/3!M(5!(!)/!&'/%;A(;5+,(!)1;;1;!

7(%715&(;!A/'/!13/4('/'!/!7'5/+,(!)1!*.!A'()*&(!)1!.()/>!?;;5.!/;!5./21%;!<*1!;1'05'/.!

)1!4/;1!A/'/!/!7(%M52*'/+,(!1!)135.5&/+,(!)(;!7(%715&(;! &/%&(!)(!O/%2*141/&!<*/%&(!)(!

./%2*1! /&*/3! M('/.! 1;;1%75/5;! A/'/! 7(%;&'*+,(! )(! A'()*&(:! A(5;! 1;;/;! 5./21%;!

/A'1;1%&/0/.!)1!.()(!/*&(@'1M1'1%&1!(;!M/&('1;!M('./)('1;!)/!1;&=&57/!./%2*1!/&*/3>!E;!

131.1.1%&(;! )/! 1;&/.A/'5/:! 1%&,(:! 4/;1/'/.@;1! %(;! .1;.(;! 1! ;1! 7(%M52*'/'/.! 7(.(!

/3&/.1%&1!'1A'1;1%&/&50/;!)(;!/;;*%&(;!/&=!1%&,(!A1;<*5;/)(;:!)5/3(2/%)(!7(.!/!A'(A(;&/!

)(! ./%2*1! /&*/3! A('! ;1'1.! '1A'1;1%&/+B1;! )5'1&/;! )(;! ;1*;! A(%&(;! )1! '1M1'R%75/! 1!

5)1%&5M57/+,(>! \5/%&1! )/! )501';5)/)1! )1! 5%M('./+B1;! <*1! %(;! )1A/'/.(;! 1! M561'/.! A/'&1!

)1;&/!7'5/+,(:!)1;&/7/.(;!/!5.A('&Q%75/!)/!7(%;&'*+,(!A/*&/)/!1.!)5'1&'561;!.1&()(3(257/;!

A'(N1&*/3!A/'/!/!;(3*+,(!1M57/6!)(!A'(431./!)1!)1;52%>!?!/)(+,(!)/;!)5'1&'561;!)1!H/%7`1;!

CIJJW!/L!A(;;54535&(*!/!/'&57*3/+,(!)/;!0/'5Z015;!1%0(305)/;:!105&/%)(!/;!18A1'5R%75/;!/A1%/;!

5%)*&50/;! 1! )5'175(%/%)(! (! A'(71;;(! 7'5/&50(! A/'/! /! 4*;7/! )1! *./! ;(3*+,(! 5%(0/)('/! 1!

A1'&5%1%&1!/(!7(%&1X)(!1;&*)/)(>!

G%M5.:! &1'.5%/.(;! /! 5%01;&52/+,(! 7(.! /! 71'&16/! )1! <*1! M(5! /)<*5'5)(! *.!

7(%`175.1%&(!/.A3(!71'7/!)(!(4N1&(!)1!1;&*)(:!1!)(!A'(71;;(!)1!7(%;&'*+,(!A'(N1&*/3>!

Page 79: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

_1M1'R%75/;!!]?H^EH:!}*'5/335;>!U/'&5)Z'5(;!)(!?%/'<*5;.(:!.535&/%&1;!)/!7(%&'/7*3&*'/P!*.!1;&*)(!;(4'1!/!5%M3*R%75/!)(!/'%/<*5;.(!%/!A'()*+,(!7*3&*'/3!/%/'7(@A*%u>!-?EHP!_105;&/!G31&'9%57/!)1!-5R%75/;!H(75/5;>!i[U]@!i%501';5)/)1![1)1'/3!)/!U/'/S4/:!;1&:!IJJK>!!![EFHG-?:!F/'/!?'/2,(>!E!O/%2*141/&!7(.(!U(3S&57/!)1!_1A'1;1%&/+,(>!:'-*52479!~~k$$$!-(%2'1;;(!]'/;5315'(!)1!-5R%75/;!)/!-(.*%57/+,(>!iG_D!@!i%501';5)/)1!)(!G;&/)(!)(!_5(!)1!D/%15'(:!;1&:!IJJK>!!q?OG$_E:!_()'52(!h!-?_k?axE:!-'5;&5%/>!E!O(05.1%&(!O/%2*141/&!%/!.*)/%+/!)/!'1/35)/)1!;(75(A(3S&57/!)1!U1'%/.4*7(>!!!k:!V4'(5*004!?45-)()<0!3*!G42.4M4(.&>!i%501';5)/)1!F(0/!a5;4(/:!N*%:!IJJm>!!!q?HU?_:!aX75/>!O(05.1%&(!?'.('5/3>!IJ"J>!\5;A(%S013!1.P!`&&APhh4/;535(>M*%)/N>2(0>4'hA1;<*5;/1;7(3/'h5%)18>A`A�(A&5(%Ä7(.Å7(%&1%&o051bÄ/'&5731o5)ÄrTro$&1.5)Ä"TI!?71;;(!1.!"Kh""hIJ"J!!q?_-$?:!?%/>!?M5%/3!(!<*1!=!;1'!5%)51�!IJJK>\5;A(%S013!1.P!`&&APhhbbb>7(<*1&13.(3(&(0>7(.>4'hA&h./&1'5/;>A`A�7()ÄT!?71;;(!1.!"Ih"JhIJ"J!!a$O?:!D/.1';(%>!-`/.4/'53P!i./!_1715&/!OX;57(@q/;&'(%9.57/!IJJr>!\5;A(%S013!1.P!`&&APhhbbb>(01'.*%)(>7(.>4'h(01'43(2h7`/.4/'53@*./@'1715&/@.*;57(@2/;&'(%(.57/!?71;;(!1.!"Vh"JhIJ"J!

!DEFGH:!H*1!D1%uv%>!8&0J.4'!`*0.('9!O/%*/3!)(!G;&535;&/>!-(;/7!F/5Mv>!IJJK>!

!

a?l?^EH:! G0/! O/'5/>! %*-434M4(.&! V.*'-b;.2&K! G0/! O/'5/! a/u/&(;:! O/'5%/! )1! ?%)'/)1!

O/'7(%5>!jÇ!G)>!H,(!U/*3(P!?&3/;!IJJj!

!

aGcE:![>!Y!;*'l7*'4!6@0P7&'()*!'&!2*'&!7)0.2&M!6*5'&7,)2&'&>IJJW>!IIKA>!\5;;1'&/+,(!C!UY;@!q'/)*/+,(!1.!?).5%5;&'/+,(L! !-1%&'(!)1!-5R%75/;!H(75/5;!?A357/)/;>!i%501';5)/)1![1)1'/3!)1!U1'%/.4*7(:!_175M1>!!

O?[[GHEa$:!O57`13>!j4!8)'34!3&0!/6&5<'2.&0#!^'/)*+,(P!]1'&`/!x/3A1'%!q*'(05&6>!VÇ!1)5+,(>!!U1&'YA(35;P!k(61;:!IJJK>!!

OEFwE_GH:! ?>! O()/! O/%2*1P! ?! .';M)<'2.&! 34! 74\.7*'-4! %&'()*,*&-! '&! 743&!

6*5'&7,)2&'&>!_5(!)1!D/%15'(P!\5;;1'&/+,(!)1!O1;&'/)(!1.!\1;52%!Ui-@_$E:!IJJr>!!

!

U?aEO$FE:!G'57/>!/!743&#!H,(!U/*3(P!U*435M(3`/:!IJJI>!C-(31+,(![(3`/!G8A357/L!

Page 80: 1 | Introdução - UFPE · 2019. 10. 25. · Projeto de superfície têxtil inspirado na cena mangue contemporânea / Gabriel Germano Azevedo Telles dos Santos. - Caruaru : O autor,

!

H?F-xGH:! ! O>! ->! [>! ?! HS%&1;1! k5;*/3! 7(.(! [1''/.1%&/! U'(N1&*/3! A/'/! /! -(%71A+,(! )1!

U'()*&(;! )1!O()/>! ! Hm! V4'(5*004! :'-*5'&2.4'&M! 3*! ?*0n).0&! *7! `*0.('#! _5(! )1! D/%15'(P!

E*&*4'(h!IJJW>!

!H?F\_EF$:! -/'3(;>! E! ./%2*1! 1! (! .*%)(P! %(&/;! ;(4'1! /! 23(4/356/+,(! .*;57/3! 1.!

U1'%/.4*7(>!Ve/kSG!Pi[UGhi[U]:!IJJT>!

!H?F^É!?FF?:!O>!O*45.&!3*!%43&P!;(751)/)1:!5./21.!1!7(%;*.(>!H,(!U/*3(P!G;&/+,(!)/;!a1&'/;!1!-('1;:!IJJT>!!H?F^EH:!q>!U>!/!M.'()&(*7!34!k*0-)I5.4+!So65*00]*0!3*!V)M-)5&09!i.!1;&*)(!)/!A'()*+,(!)(!1;&535;&/!G)*/')(![1''15'/>!IJJV>!mT!A>!\5;;1'&/+,(CO1;&'/)(!1.!-(.*%57/+,(L! !-1%&'(!)1!?'&1;!1!-(.*%57/+,(>!i%501';5)/)1![1)1'/3!)1!U1'%/.4*7(:!_175M1>!!!H$ak?:!O>!_>!U>!)/>!?;!?.450/3R%75/;!^18&*/5;!)1!_(3/%)!]/'&`1;>!$%P!?7&/!H751%&5/'*.P!`*./%!/%)!;(75/3!;751%71;>!O/'5%2Z:!0>!IK:!%>!":!AA>!J"W@JIr:!IJJV!!!

^GaGH:!D>!C('2>L!;)>!%*-*454!VJ.24>!G)5&('/!]/2/+(>!_175M1:!IJJJ>!!!^GHHG_:!U>!O/%2*1!]1/&P!`X.*;!7*3&*'/3!1!;(75/3>!eY_YG!"R9!7(.*%57/+,(!1!7(%M35&(;!*'4/%(;>!?%(!"j:!"(!;1.1;&'1!IJJW>_5(!)1!D/%15'(P!IJJW>!!!!!

!!